Akiyo Noguchi

Akiyo Noguchi (野口 啓代, Noguchi Akiyo, born May 30, 1989) is a Japanese professional rock climber, sport climber and boulderer. She participates in both bouldering and lead climbing competitions. She is known for winning the IFSC Climbing World Cup in Bouldering four times. In her home country, she won Bouldering Japan Cup nine times consecutively from 2005 to 2014, which no other Japanese athlete has been able to match.

Akiyo Noguchi
Noguchi at the World Cup in Vienna, 2010.
Personal information
NationalityJapan
Born (1989-05-30) May 30, 1989
Japan
OccupationProfessional sport climber
Height165 cm (5 ft 5 in)
Weight49 kg (108 lb)
Websitehttp://akiyonoguchi.com
Climbing career
Type of climberBouldering, Lead climbing
Highest grade
Known forWinning the bouldering World Cup 4 times
Medal record
Event 1st 2nd 3rd
World Cup 21 24 22
World Championship - 4 3
Asian Games 1 - -
World Cup
2008Bouldering
Winner2008Combined
Winner2009Bouldering
Winner2009Combined
Winner2010Bouldering
2011Bouldering
2012Bouldering
2013Bouldering
Winner2014Bouldering
Winner2014Combined
Winner2015Bouldering
2015Combined
2016Combined
2017Bouldering
2018Bouldering
Winner2018Bouldering
2018Combined
2019Bouldering
2019Combined
World Championships
2005Lead
2007Bouldering
2014Bouldering
2016Bouldering
2018Bouldering
2019Bouldering
2019Combined
Asian Games
2018 Combined
Updated on April 28, 2019.

Biography

Noguchi grew up on a cattle farm in the Ibaraki Prefecture. From a young age she would climb on buildings, trees and sometimes even on the cows. In 2000, when she was 11 years old, she tried a real climbing wall for the first time, during a holiday trip to Guam. Back at home she immediately joined a local climbing gym. Her father later built her a climbing wall in an old cattle barn on the farm.[1][2][3]

In 2007, she started competing in the Bouldering World Cups, reaching the podium three times. In 2009, she won the World Cup in bouldering, over the previous year's champion Anna Stöhr.[4] Noguchi repeated as champion in 2010, 2014 and 2015.[5] In the 2011, 2012 and 2013 bouldering events at the World Cup she placed second.[5] She has also won the combined climbling title at the World Cup three times.[5]

Noguchi was also awarded the La Sportiva Competition Award in 2010, "for her victories and the positive spirit she exudes during competitions".[6]

Noguchi at the World Cup in Munich, 2012.

Rankings
See also: Best IFSC results and Akiyo Noguchi in the Climbing World Cup

Climbing World Cup
2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019
Lead 42 21 24 5 11 8 20 13 7 10 30 17 15 8 9
Bouldering - - 6 2 1 1 2 2 2 1 1 4 3 2 2
Combined - - 5 1 1 2 3 3 2 1 2 2 6 2 2

[5]

Climbing World Championships
2005 2007 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018 2019
Lead 3 11 8 - - 9 - 8 5
Bouldering 21 2 5 5 6 3 3 2 2
Speed - - 31 - - - - 47 34
Combined - - 31 - - - - 4 2

[7]

Noguchi at the World Cup in Vienna, 2010.

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
200811
200911
201022
20110
20120
201311
201411
20150
201611
20170
201811
201911
Total0459

[7]

Bouldering
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2007213
20081113
20093115
20102114
2011415
201233
2013325
20144127
2015134
2016123
2017235
2018347
201944
Total21201758

[7]

Rock climbing

Redpointed routes

8b (5.13d):

  • Liquid Finger - Joyama (JPN) - December 12, 2008

8c+ (5.14c):

  • Mind Control - Oliana (SPN) - December 10, 2013

Boulder problems

8A+ (V12)

  • Aguni - Mizugaki (JPN) - November 2014.[8]
  • A Maze of Death - Bishop (CAL) - 2016.[9]

8A (V11)

  • Monsterman SD - Jyougasaki (JPN) - February 2010.[10][11]
  • Evilution Direct - Bishop (CAL) - 2016.[12]

Media

Akiyo Noguchi is world renowned for her incredible technique and mobility. Udo Neumann, a German climbing coach, published a video of some of her best performances throughout her career, analyzing the qualities that have allowed her to excel in climbing. This video, entitled "Factors Deciding Bouldering Comps - the Art of Akiyo Noguchi,"[13] emphasizes her adaptability, which enables her to come up with unique solutions to the problems she encounters. Furthermore, her mobility allows her to do moves that elude her fellow competitors.[14] She has also gained fame on social medias, such as Instagram, where she has over 100 thousand followers.[15]

See also

References
  1. "Indoor Weekly: Akiyo Noguchi on Cows and Olympics". Gripped. Archived from the original on Jul 15, 2019.
  2. "Akiyo Noguchi explains 2020 Olympic event sports climbing". hakuhodo-global.com. Archived from the original on Jul 15, 2019.
  3. "Owndays meets #3 Akiyo Noguchi". Archived from the original on Jul 15, 2019.
  4. planetmountain.com, ed. (June 16, 2009). "Coppa del Mondo Boulder 2009: Fischhuber e Noghuchi al top, Moroni è terzo". Retrieved April 29, 2012.
  5. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  6. Vinicio Stefanello (July 18, 2010). arco2011.it (ed.). "Arco Rock Legend 2010 a Manolo, Ondra e Noguchi". Retrieved December 22, 2011.
  7. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Noguchi's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  8. "Akiyo Noguchi Crimps To Glory On 'Aguni' V12 | EpicTV Climbing Daily, Ep. 383".
  9. "Rock Trip 2016 in Bishop".
  10. youtube (ed.). "Monsterman SD".
  11. up-climbing.com, ed. (February 9, 2010). "Two female 8A – Noguchi and Matthes". Retrieved December 22, 2011.
  12. "Rock Trip 2016 in Bishop".
  13. udini, Factors Deciding Boulder Comps - the Art of Akiyo Noguchi, retrieved 2019-02-07
  14. OnBouldering, A jaw-dropping move by Akiyo Noguchi | Sunday Sends, retrieved 2019-02-07
  15. "NoguchiAkiyo / 野口啓代 / のぐちあきよ (@noguchi_akiyo) • Instagram photos and videos". www.instagram.com. Retrieved 2019-02-07.
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