Aleš Česen
Aleš Česen (born 26 April 1982, in Kranj) is a Slovenian climber, mountaineer, mountain guide and entrepreneur.[1]
Aleš Česen | |
---|---|
Born | |
Occupation | climber, Mountaineer, Mountain guide, Entrepreneur |
In 2015 Česen was awarded Piolet d’Or for ascent of the north face of Hagshu[2][3] along with Marko Prezelj and Andrej Lindič. He received the award again for the North ridge of Latok I in 2019 with his climbing partners, Tom Livingstone and Luka Stražar.
He was awarded Alpinist of the year award[4][5][6] in 2017, given by the Alpine Association of Slovenia.
Česen has a PhD[7] in Civil Engineering and is an IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide[8] and climbing instructor. Ales has two sons.
Ascents (selection)
2017
- Indian Himalaya (Kishtwar) – New route on North Ridge of P6013 (6038 m / 19 809 ft)
- Indian Himalaya (Kishtwar) – New route on Arjuna (6250 m / 20 505 ft), 2nd ascent of the summit, 1st in alpine style
- Many difficult ice climbs and mixed climbs in Alberta and British Columbia
2016
- Nepal, Khumbu – SW ridge on Ama Dablam (6812 m / 22349 ft)
- Karakoram – Austrian route on Broad Peak (8051 m / 26 414 ft)
- Karakoram – NW ridge on Gasherbrum IV (7925 m / 26 001 ft)
2015
- Alaska, Denali National Park – SW ridge on Mt Frances
- Alaska, Denali National Park – W couloir on Kahiltna Queen
- Alaska, Denali National Park – French route in N face on Mt Hunter
2014
- Indian Himalaya (Zanskar) – New route on Lagan (5750 m / 18865 ft), TD-
- Indian Himalaya (Zanskar) – New route on Hana's Men North (6300 m / 20669 ft), TD
- Indian Himalaya (Zanskar) – New route on Hagshu north face (6657 m / 21840 ft), ED
2008
- Charakusa Valley (Karakorum) – Second ascent of the Anderson-House-Prezelj route (ED, 6c, M6, 2200 m) on K7 West (6858 m / 22 500 ft)
- Charakusa Valley (Karakorum) – Normal ascent on the Sulu Peak (6050 m / 19 849 ft)
- Charakusa Valley (Karakorum) – British route on Nasser Brak (5200 m / 17 060 ft)
2006
- Trango Towers (Karakorum) – Normal route on Great Trango Tower (6286 m / 20 623 ft)
- Trango Towers (Karakorum) – Chota Badla (Trango Monk, 5850 m / 19 192 ft), second ascent
- Trango Towers (Karakorum) – Free ascent on Slovenian route (VI 5.12a/b, M5m 1000m) on Nameless Trango Tower (6251 m / 20 509 ft)
- Trango Towers (Karakorum) – Many other shorter routes in the Trango range
2005
- Kula Kangri range (Tibet) – Climbed a new route in west face of Karejiang III (6824 m / 22 388 ft)
- Kula Kangri range (Tibet) – An attempt on Kula Kangri (7538 m / 24 731 ft). Failed due to bad weather.
2004
- Yosemite Valley: Astroman (Washington Column), The Nose (El Capitan), Salathe Wall (El Capitan), Regular NW face (Half Dome) and many more.
2003
- Tian Shan - Climbed a new route in south face of Peak Gorky (6050 m / 19 849 ft)
- Tian Shan - Climbed the normal route in Khan Tengri (7010 m / 22 999 ft)
References
- "Terms of Service Violation". www.bloomberg.com.
- "Piolet d'Or 2015: the 3 ascent videos".
- Planetmountain.com (30 March 2015). "Hagshu - Piolets d'or 2015 Winner" – via Vimeo.
- "Davidova in Česen alpinista leta 2017".
- "To so najbolj izstopajoči plezalni in alpinistični dosežki lanskega leta #foto".
- "Planinska zveza razglasila najuspešnejše".
- Aleš, Česen (18 September 2018). "Spremljanje in karakterizacija korozijskih procesov jekla v betonu : doktorska disertacija". Cite journal requires
|journal=
(help) - "ZGVS - gorski vodniki ZGVS/IFMGA/UIAGM - Najdi gorskega vodnika".
- "BREAKING: Latok I Finally Climbed from the North!".
- "Latok I climbed after 40 years by Aleš Česen, Luka Stražar, Tom Livingstone".
- "Latok I Climbed From the North, but North Ridge Remains Incomplete".
- "Breaking News: North Side of Latok I Finally Climbed".
- "Latok I summited by a variation of the North Ridge - Alpinist.com". www.alpinist.com.
External links
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