Crochet bikini

The crochet bikini or crocheted bikini is a knitted swimwear or bikini that has been worn since at least the 1970s.[1] The style gained attention in the late 2010s as a form of boho-chic style and as new brands emerged.[2][3]

A crochet bikini created by Brazilian street artist Maria Solange Ferrarini has been the center of several lawsuits that received international attention. Turkish American entrepreneur Ipek Irgit took the idea of Ferrarini's crochet bikini during a visit to Brazil and claimed copyright on the design. Since starting her company in 2013, Irgit has made copyright claims against any similar swimwear and never credited Ferrarini.[4] In 2019, Ferrarini was awarded her own copyright on the design she created.[5]

History

Crochet squares became a material used for bikinis in the 1970s, among other alternative materials.[1] Actress Robin Byrd became known for wearing a crochet bikini during the 1970s, and the look became closely associated with her image.[6]

Maria Solange Ferrarini (born 1956/1957) in São Carlos, Brazil to a seamstress mother and bricklayer father. She was taught to crochet at an early age and sewed out of economic necessity, which she sold on the beach in Trancoso, Brazil. As the beach town became more popular, her sales increased. British model Kelly Brook was photographed wearing the bikini during her visit to the town in 2012. Ferrarini signs all of her crochet bikinis.[4]

In 2013, Turkish American entrepreneur Ipek Irgit launched her crochet bikini under the trademark of Kiini.[4][7] The product gained attention after model Dree Hemingway posted a picture of herself in a kiini.[8][4] Irgit, who had previously worked for New York design companies, including Max Mara,[9] branded her product by creating a portmanteau of her initials and the word bikini.

Initial claim

In 2014, Irgit obtained copyright protection for the crochet bikini design and claimed trade dress rights.[10][4] In 2015, Irgit sued Victoria's Secret for a similar crochet bikini.[11] Later, Irgit sued Neiman Marcus and two other swimwear companies for trade violations.[11] Sally Wu, a colleague of Irgit's in the production of the kiini, told The New York Times that Irgit feared that the discovery process of those lawsuits would reveal that Irgit had not actually designed the kiini. (Irgit denies Wu's claim.) The discovery process never proceeded, and Irgit and Victoria's Secret settled their suit out of court.[4]

Other lawsuits and versions

In April 2018, Kiini filed a federal lawsuit in the Southern District of New York, against Neiman Marcus, alleging unfair competition.[4] A month later, Kiini amended its lawsuit against Neiman Marcus to explicitly add PilyQ, Bloomingdales, Lord & Taylor, Macy’s and other retailers as defendants.

PilyQ is a swimwear brand which sells a line of crochet bikinis under its brand name Platinum.[4] Following the lawsuit, Jason Forge, the husband of one of PilyQ's owners, sought out Brazilian street artist Maria Solange Ferrarini, to negotiate a licensing deal for her crochet bikini designs.[4] Under the terms of the deal, Ferrarini was paid about $5,100 in 2018, and will earn an annual licensing fee of $7,700 in 2019.[4]

Today

As of October 2019, Neiman Marcus,[11] Target[5] and other retailers[12] continue to sell their own versions of crochet bikinis, while Irgit's lawsuits against them, and Ferrarini's lawsuit against Irgit, continue to work their way through the courts. Ferrarini was awarded her own copyright on her crochet bikini design by the United States Copyright Office in January 2019.[5] Ferrarini's copyright was awarded under the title "Ferrarini Bikini".[13]

Crochet bikinis can also be crafted as a DIY item.[2] There are many crochet bikini lookalikes for the kiini.[12]

References
  1. Charleston, Beth Duncuff (October 2004). "The Bikini". Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved August 15, 2013.
  2. "How to crochet a bikini for summer". June 20, 2019. Retrieved June 20, 2019.
  3. Carreon, Justine (May 2, 2017). "17 Crochet Bikinis That Were Basically Made For Summer". Elle. Retrieved 2019-01-02.
  4. Rosman, Katherine (March 29, 2017). "The Itsy-Bitsy, Teenie-Weenie, Very Litigious Bikini". Retrieved March 29, 2017.
  5. Rosman, Katherine. "Target Pulls New Thread in Bikini Yarn".
  6. Buck, Stephanie (March 15, 2017). "The wholesomely pornographic Robin Byrd sued Time Warner to keep her show on the air". Retrieved March 15, 2017.
  7. Kiini
  8. Sagansky, Gillian (September 15, 2014). "Bikinis Forever". Retrieved September 15, 2014.
  9. "Introducing Ipek Irgit: The Designer Behind This Summer's Hottest Swimwear Brand". March 29, 2017. Retrieved March 29, 2017.
  10. Givner, Ariel (March 29, 2017). "Kiini, Victoria's Secret Settle Swimsuit Infringement Lawsuit". Retrieved March 29, 2017.
  11. Weiss, Debra Cassens (2019-01-02). "Who owns the copyright to a crocheted bikini? Legal battle waged by Kiini maker takes a turn". ABA Journal. Retrieved 2019-01-02.
  12. Julia, Maria (May 11, 2018). "7 WEBSITES FOR BEAUTIFUL KIINI LOOK ALIKES (FOR CHEAP!)". Retrieved May 11, 2018.
  13. Ferrarini, Maria Solange (2018-06-23). "Ferrarini Bikini Copyright Application". United States Copyright Catalog. Retrieved December 8, 2019.
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