Dmitri Sarafutdinov

Dmitri Sarafutdinov (Russian: Дмитрий Шарафутдинов; born 16 September 1986 in Korkino), also known as Dmitrii Sharafutdinov, is a professional Russian rock climber specializing in bouldering climbing competitions. He has won three World Championships, in 2007,[2] 2011[3] and 2012[4] and one Bouldering World Cup in 2013.[5]

Dmitri Sarafutdinov
Climbing at the Bouldering Worldcup August 2012
Personal information
NationalityRussian
Born (1986-09-16) 16 September 1986[1]
Korkino, Russia
Height178 cm (5 ft 10 in)
Weight59 kg (130 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climberBoulderer
Highest grade
Known forWinning 3 World Championships and 1 World Cup
Medal record
World Cup
2007Bouldering
2008Bouldering
2011Bouldering
Winner2013Bouldering
2014Bouldering
World Championships
2007Bouldering
2011Bouldering
2012Bouldering
European Championships
2013Bouldering
2006Lead
Updated on 28 July 2017.

Biography

Dmitri started climbing when he was six years old and trained in a small climbing gym in Korkino.

In 2002 he started competing in the youth speed and lead disciplines. In 2002 he won the bronze medal in speed Youth A at the World Youth Championship in Canteleu, France[6] and in 2004 he won the bronze medal in lead Junior at the World Youth Championship in Edinburgh.[7]

In 2003 he began competing in the senior categories, in lead, speed and bouldering disciplines and in 2004 he won the Russian Climbing Championship in bouldering.[8] From 2007 he focused on bouldering where he achieved his greatest success.

On 24 April 2007 Dmitri took his first podium in the Bouldering World Cup placing second in Sofia,[9] and on 23 June he gained his first victory at Fiera di Primiero, Italy.[10] He ended the season in second place behind Kilian Fischhuber.[11] In the same year he won his first gold medal at the World Championships in Avilés, Spain.[2]

In 2011 he achieved five podiums and the final second place in the Bouldering World Cup[12] and his second gold medal at the World Championships in Arco, Italy.[3] In 2012 he won his third World Championships, in Paris.[4]

On July 2012 he climbed his hardest route, the 9a+ (5.15a) Ali-Hulk extension in Rodellar, Spain. The route consists in a boulder (climbed without rope) and a sport climbing route linked together.[13]

In 2013 he has won his first Bouldering World Cup title, with two wins, one second and two podiums finishes out of eight events.[5]

Rankings

Climbing World Cup[14]
Discipline 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
Bouldering 56 - 27 23 2 3 24 4 2 4 1 2 11 12 24
Lead 63 - 44 - 44 - - - - - 49 - - - -
Speed 20 - 11 19 16 27 - - - - - - - - -
Combined 14 - 3 10 4 4 - - - - 4 - - - 77

Climbing World Championships[15]
Discipline 2005 2007 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016
Bouldering 7 1 - 1 1 5 33
Lead 30 47 - - - - -
Speed - 11 - - - - -

Climbing European Championships[15]
Discipline 2004 2006 2007 2008 2010 2013 2015
Bouldering 8 - 4 5 9 2 11
Lead 54 3 - 41 - 18 -
Speed - 8 - - - 22 -

Number of medals in the World Cup

Bouldering[15]
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2007213
2008213
20090
2010112
20112215
2012112
20132125
2014224
Total129324

References
  1. "Dmitry Sharafutdinov Interview". 17 July 2012. Archived from the original on 6 August 2012. Retrieved 3 May 2013.
  2. "IX Climbing World Championship Aviles: full results". planetmountain.com. 24 September 2007. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  3. "Dmitry Sharafutdinov and Anna Stöhr crowned Boulder World Champions at Arco". planetmountain.com. 17 July 2011. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  4. Franz Schiassi (17 September 2012). "World Climbing Championships 2012, all the results from Paris". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  5. "Results of the IFSC Bouldering World Cup Munich 2013". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 26 August 2013.
  6. "UIAA Youth World Championship Speed – Canteleu (FRA) 2002". ifsc-climbing.org. 27 September 2002. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  7. "UIAA World Youth Championship – Edinburgh (GBR) 2004". ifsc-climbing.org. 12 September 2004. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  8. "Russian Climbing Championship. Ekaterinburg. Bouldering. Speed". mountain.ru. 16 February 2004. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  9. "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) – Sofia (BUL) 2007". ifsc-climbing.org. 21 April 2007. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  10. "Bouldering World Cup 2007, Fiera di Primiero won by Sharafutdinov and Gros". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  11. "Bouldering World Cup 2007 won by Fischhuber and Danion". planetmountain.com. 12 November 2007. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  12. "Bouldering World Cup 2011 won by Kilian Fischhuber and Anna Stöhr". planetmountain.com. 23 August 2011. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
  13. "Dmitry Sharafutdinov repite 'Alí Hulk extension' 9a+ en Rodellar" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 26 July 2012. Retrieved 10 June 2013.
  14. IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved 20 August 2019.
  15. IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "Sarafutdinov's profile and rankings". Retrieved 20 August 2019.
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