Hristo Prodanov

Hristo Prodanov (Bulgarian: Христо Проданов) (February 24, 1943 – April 21, 1984) was a Bulgarian mountaineer. He was the first Bulgarian to climb Mount Everest, doing it via the most difficult way—the West Ridge—as well as alone and without oxygen. He was the first person to climb Everest in April, when the weather conditions are generally too bad for an expedition, and also the thirteenth person (the first person from the West Ridge) to climb Everest without the use of bottled oxygen. Climbing the summit at 18:15 local time he had to descend overnight and got lost shortly after that. On the next afternoon he reported he has lost his gloves and soon he won't be able to hold the radio button long enough to talk. His body was never found.

Prodanov was still a student when he became involved in mountaineering. He began work as a metallurgical engineer in Kremikovtzi AD in 1976. He had his first 7000 m ascent on August 6, 1967 when he climbed Lenin Peak. He had previously climbed several peaks in the Alps.

His major successes were related to Hindu Kush (1976) and Lhotse. In 1981, he was the first Bulgarian to climb Lhotse without the use of supplementary oxygen.

His niece, Mariana Prodanova Maslarova, attempted to climb Mt. Everest (without the use of supplemental oxygen) on the 20th anniversary of her uncle's death. Maslarova died of exposure at 8,700 meters, exactly 20 years and 30 days after her uncle.

Climbs

8000m ascents
  • Lhotse (8516m) - April 30, 1981, solo, without oxygen
  • Everest (8848m) - April 20, 1984, solo, without oxygen

7000m ascents
  • Lenin Peak (7134m) - August 2, 1975, July 28, 1982, August 6, 1982, July 13, 1983, August 2, 1983
  • Communism Peak, today known as Ismail Samani Peak (7495m) - July 29, 1980, July 24, 1983
  • Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105m) - July 28, 1979, July 31, 1979, August 8, 1982, July 29, 1983
  • Noshaq (7492m) - July 30, 1976

Alps
  • North face of Matterhorn (4471m) - September 21–26, 1974, together with Trifon Djambazov
  • North face of Grand Jorasses on the Walker Spur (4208m) - July 30 August 1, 1967, together with Atanas Kovandzhiev
  • Petit Dru (3733m), Bonatti route - July 16–18, 1967; "Route of Guides" - September 3–8, 1977
  • Mont Blanc (4807m), Freney Pillar - July 15–16, 1969

Caucasus
  • Pillar of Ushba - July 25–28, 1970
  • Traverse in Shkhelda (4320m) - July 24–August 1, 1973

Awards

Prodanov received several awards, including:

See also
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