Kurumdy Mountain
Kurumdy Mountain is a mountain in the Pamir Mountains of Central Asia, in the eastern section of the Trans-Alay Range. Kurumdy (Kurumdy I summit) has an elevation of 6,614 metres (21,699 ft) above sea level and sits on the international border between Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan and China.
| Kurumdy Mountain | |
|---|---|
| Gora Kurumdy | |
  Kurumdy Mountain Location in Tajikistan, on the border with Kyrgyzstan and China  Kurumdy Mountain Kurumdy Mountain (Kyrgyzstan)  Kurumdy Mountain Kurumdy Mountain (China) | |
| Highest point | |
| Elevation | 6,614 m (21,699 ft) [1] |
| Prominence | 2,278 m (7,474 ft) [1]Lenin Peak |
| Parent peak | Lenin Peak |
| Listing | Ultra |
| Coordinates | 39°27′N 73°34′E [1] |
| Geography | |
| Location | Kyrgyzstan–Tajikistan border |
| Parent range | Pamir Mountains |
| Climbing | |
| First ascent | 1932 or 2001 |
Location
Kurumdy is located in the eastern part of the Trans-Alay Range in the Pamir Mountains of Central Asia. It is 22 km east of the Kyzyl-Art Pass. On the northern side flows the East Kyzilsy Glacier with a length of 3,7 km and an area of 69,4 km2.[2] The Kurumdy Glacier with 17.2 km (10.7 mi) and 60.6 km2 (23.4 sq mi)[2] is located on the south side and flows to the west.
Since territorial changes in 2011 it is the three state summit between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan and China.
Climbing history
There is some uncertainty concerning the first ascent. An ascent by E. Timashev and party from the south apparently reached the main summit in 1932.[3] However, other sources surmise this party only made it to Kurumdu West (6154 m).[4][5]
On October 1, 2001 Michael Mihajlov and Vitaliy Akimov reached the Kurumdy I summit by climbing a major north ridge.[5] This would be the first ascent if the 1932 ascent was only to Kurumdu West.
The first traverse (East-West, 15 days) was accomplished in summer 2015 by the Austrians Markus Gschwendt and Katharina Pfnaisl. This was the second ascent of the main summit (6614 m, 5 August 2015). Further they traversed some 6000 m peaks of which at least two peaks were unclimbed at this time.[6] For the ascent they used a very steep slope east oft the Kurumdy east summits (6384 m, Peak Kathi 6259 m). The descent was done by crossing the west summits (6554 m, 6283 m) and then following a north ridge to Golova Orla 5440 m from where they reached the Basecamp (3770 m)[5]
Information for visitors
For the Area is a border-area-permit necessary (info from 2015)
Approach from the north, Kyrgyzstan: Airport in Osh, Taxi to Sari Tash, with Horses to the basecamp on the northern side of the East Kyzilsy Glacier at 3770 m. Water quality can be a problem. Bring a water filter system.
There is no easy line to the summit. Success depends much on snow conditions and weather.
References
- "Gora Kurumdy, Tajikistan". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 15 April 2019.
- Sowjet. Enzyklopedia (russ.): Курумды
- Kleslo, Michal (2009). "Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir, Zaalayskiy Range, Kurumdy East, North Rib". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. Retrieved 15 April 2019. NOTE: While Klesno is the author, the 1932 claim is contained within an editor's note.
- Gippenreiter, Yevgeniy; Shataev, Vladimir. "Six and Seventhousanders of the TIen Shan and the Pamirs" (PDF). Alpine Journal. Alpine Club: 126. Retrieved 15 April 2019.
- Gschwendt, Markus (2016). "Traverse of Kurumdy and Unclimbed Satellite Peaks". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. Retrieved 15 April 2019.
- "Summitlist of M. Gschwendt". Archived from the original on 2015-11-23. Retrieved 2015-12-08.