Malcolm Smith (climber)

Malcolm Smith (born 1973) is a rock climber born in Dunbar, Scotland.[1] He is the brother of Scottish Visual Artist Sandy Smith.

Malcolm Smith
Personal information
NationalityBritish
Born1973 (age 47–48)
Dunbar, Scotland
Height178 cm (5 ft 10 in)[1]
Climbing career
Type of climberSport climbing, bouldering
Highest grade
Updated on May 2014.

Climbing since 1988, he has developed an impressive list of repeated hard climbs, notably repeating Ben Moon's 1990 testpiece Hubble at Raven Tor aged only 18.[1] Smith is particularly known for his commitment to tough training regimes and for his focus on bouldering. He is one of only a handful of climbers to have repeated the classic Dreamtime at Cresciano, and has also made first ascents of boulder problems up to Font 8B+ such as Monk Life in Northumberland[2] and Pilgrimage at Parisella's Cave in North Wales.[3]

Smith has also competed internationally and is sponsored by Scarpa and Moon Climbing.

In 2014, Smith and The Climbing Academy released a range of climbing holds under the brand Stonesmith Holds.[4]

Films

Smith's training techniques were the subject of the black and white short film Splinter by Slackjaw Films.[5] This was originally included as a free extra on their DVD "Blood, Sweat and Bagels", but has since come to be regarded as a classic climbing short in its own right.

References
  1. "FreakClimbing.com - Interview with Malcolm Smith". FreakClimbing.com.
  2. "Nigel Callender repeats Monk Life - Font 8B+". UKClimbing.com.
  3. "Smith Does 5.14+ Traverse - Climbing.com". Climbing.com. Archived from the original on 2008-05-22. Retrieved 2008-07-21.
  4. "UKC Gear - Stonesmith Holds". UKClimbing.com.
  5. "Splinter by Slackjaw". Slackjaw.
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