Mugs Stump

Terry "Mugs" Stump (August 28, 1949 – May 21, 1992) was a noted American rock climber and mountaineer, active in establishing difficult first ascents in the Alaska Range and the Canadian Rockies. He died from falling into a crevasse while descending the South Buttress of Denali on May 21, 1992 while guiding clients Bob Hoffman and Nelson Max.[1]

Mugs Stump
Born
Terry Stump

August 28, 1949
Mifflintown, Pennsylvania, US
DiedMay 21, 1992 (aged 42)
Denali Borough, Alaska, AK
NationalityAmerican
OccupationMountaineer
OrganizationUnited States Antarctic Program, National Science Foundation
Parent(s)Warren Stump and Florence Manbeck
Relatives3 brothers: Ed, Quig, and Thad

He is most noted for the first ascent of the Emperor Face on Mount Robson with Jim Logan, and for three routes in the Alaska Range, the East Face of The Moose's Tooth, the Moonflower Buttress on Mount Hunter, and a one-day solo of Denali's Cassin Ridge.

Climber Conrad Anker credits Stump as an influential climbing mentor in the film Meru.[2]

Stump, along with his geologist brother, contributed to field safety for the United States Antarctic Program scientists and other working on the continent for the National Science Foundation.

The Mugs Stump Alpine Climbing Award for aspiring alpine climbers is named in his honor.[3]

Early life

Mugs was born in Mifflintown, Pennsylvania, where he grew up fishing, hunting, and camping with his father Warren and three brothers.

First ascents and notable ascents
  • 1978 Stump/Logan, Emperor Face, Mount Robson (VI 5.9 A2 2500m) with Jim Logan.[4]
  • 1981 Dance of the Woo Li Masters, East Face of The Moose's Tooth, Ruth Gorge, Alaska, USA (VI 5.9 WI4+ A4, 1520m) with Jim Bridwell[5]
  • 1981 Moonflower Buttress, North Buttress of Mount Hunter, Alaska Range (Alaska Grade 6: 5.8 A3 AI6, 6100') with Paul Aubrey(NZ). FA to ridge crest.[6]
  • 1987 South Face Broken Tooth, Ruth Gorge, Alaska Range (IV 5.10+ A3). FA with Steve Quinlan[7]
  • 1990 Rodeo Queen, Streaked Wall, Zion National Park, FA with Conrad Anker[8]
  • 1991 Freezer Burn aka Free or Burn (IV 5.11+), East Temple, Zion National Park, Utah; FFA with Lynn Wheeler[9]
  • 1992 First winter ascent of Hallucinogin Wall, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, with John Middendorf. First Time a major Black Canyon big wall ascended in winter.

References
  1. "Expedition Leader Killed in Mount McKinley Fall". Daily Sitka Sentinel. 26 May 1992. p. 8.
  2. Schaffer, Grayson. "How Conrad Anker Risked It All to Chase a Dream". Outside. Retrieved 2017-06-15.
  3. Heinrich, Doug. "about Mugs / Mugs Stump Alpine Climbing Award". Black Diamond Equipment. Archived from the original on 2009-01-06. Retrieved 2009-05-29.
  4. Logan, James (1979). "Mount Robson's Emperor Face". American Alpine Journal. New York, NY USA: American Alpine Club. 22 (53): 122–124. ISBN 978-0-930410-75-9.
  5. Beckwith, Christian (September 1, 2004). "Gods and Monsters". Alpinist. Alpinist Magazine (8). Retrieved 2009-05-29.
  6. "1981 Mountaineering Summary, Denali National Park and preserve" (PDF). National Park Service. Retrieved 2009-05-29.
  7. "Climbs and expeditions 1987". American Alpine Journal. New York, NY USA: American Alpine Club. 30 (62): 109, 115. 1988. ISBN 0-930410-33-5.
  8. "First Ascent Info". Bigwall dot Com. Retrieved 2008-02-06.
  9. Bjornstad, Eric (1996). Desert Rock – Rock Climbs in the National Parks. Evergreen, CO: Chockstone Press. p. 75. ISBN 0-934641-92-7.


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