Ultraviolet (restaurant)

Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet is a single-table restaurant in Shanghai, China, opened in May 2012 by French chef Paul Pairet and the VOL Group. Since October 2014 Ultraviolet became one of the restaurant members of Les Grandes Tables du Monde,[1][2] the first restaurant in this organization from China.[3] In September 2017, the second edition of Michelin Guide Shanghai released the result for 2018, and Ultraviolet received 3 Michelin stars.[4]

Overview

Billed as the first multi-sensory restaurant in the world, Ultraviolet uses sight, sound and smell to enhance the food through a controlled and tailored atmosphere.[5] The restaurant has a single table of 10 seats and serves a single 20+ course dinner menu for ten guests each night. The dining room of Ultraviolet is ascetic with no décor, no artifacts, no paintings, and no views.[6] The room is equipped with multi-sensory high-end technology such as dry scent projectors, stage and UV lighting, 360 degree wall projection, table projectors, beam speakers and a multichannel speaker system.[7] Each course of the menu is accompanied by lights, sounds, music, and/or scents, and enhanced with its own tailored atmosphere to provide context for the dish's taste.

Ultraviolet originally evolved from Pairet’s desire to reduce the technical constraints of the traditional restaurant, which is organized to provide “a la carte” service. This type of organization requires preparation methods that Pairet considers “sub-standard”. By monitoring the timing of the courses and offering a fixed menu, Ultraviolet is able to optimize the control and the quality of cooking in ways that the majority of traditional restaurants cannot – a model that has roots in the historical “table d’hôte” concept.[8] This control allows Ultraviolet to play on and direct the atmosphere for each dish through multi-sensory technology.[9]

Ultraviolet incorporates technology traditionally used in unrelated fields to drive and control the “psycho taste” and enhance the perception of food. This concept is based on Pairet's interest and desire to stimulate what he calls the ‘psycho-taste’. Howie Kahn, writing in The New York Times, conveyed Pairet's idea that ‘psycho taste’ allows eating to “act as a gateway to the mind” and “it delves into the notion that memories, associations, expectations, ideas, misunderstandings, joys and fears all play a role in the experience of a meal.”[10]

Cuisine

The restaurant's cuisine draws on Pairet’s French background, his experience working in Paris, Hong Kong, Sydney, Jakarta and Istanbul, and is a blend of experimentation, comfort and simplicity. The restaurant has described its cuisine as “avant-garde figurative.”[11] After developing this concept since 1996, Pairet publicly presented the final theory of Ultraviolet for the first time in 2010 at the OFF5 French Omnivore Food Festival in Deauville, France.[12][13][14][15]

Reception

Overview

Howie Kahn commented in The New York Times Style Magazine, "Ultraviolet, and its auteur, seem like the next steps in the chain of culinary evolution". He also described the food and dining experience as "succeed[ing] brilliantly, mesmerizingly and, as intended, deliciously. Both UV menus reflect Pairet’s personality directly, setting the table with humor and grace, mischief and whimsy, with puzzles to solve and dishes to think through."[16]

Brian Johnston wrote for Sydney Morning Herald, "this is probably the most avant-garde restaurant in the world."[17] In another of Johnston's write-ups in Voyeur, Virgin Airlines' in-flight magazine, he wrote, "There's no more outrageously original restaurant on the planet than the recently opened Ultraviolet..."[18]

Claudio Grillenzoni reviewed the restaurant for Identita Golose in 2013, describing Ultraviolet as: "An incredible psycho-gustative odyssey lasting 4 hours and 22 dishes". He commented on the food, saying “all dishes, on top of being remarkable, are always served in a very fun and unassuming way… one of the most experimental and challenging, one of the most fun and accomplished of the recent past.”[19]

Crystyl Mo wrote for Time Out Shanghai in Ultraviolet's opening month (May 2012), "Ultraviolet is radical and it was very much worth the wait… The food is central to the night, never just a prop; each meticulously crafted bite is so delectable, we’re left craving more after nearly every course."[20]

Condé Nast Traveller UK edition selected Ultraviolet in its Gold Standard Restaurants 2013, saying “Ultraviolet is China's most immersive foodie experience… Truly extraordinary.”[21]

Food & Wine US listed Ultraviolet in its global Go List in 2014 May issue, "An evening at Ultraviolet is a surreal drama... Paul Pairet serves 22 courses, each a theatrical production with music, scents and video."[22]

Kristie Lu Stout's article and video interview with Pairet on CNN first posted in 2016 described Ultraviolet, "Hidden away in an old Shanghai neighborhood is arguably one of the most innovative restaurants in the world."[23]

The Telegraph reviewed the restaurant and released an article in June 2017, writing it as "the world's most innovative restaurant", "a culinary experience beyond compare".[24]

Ultraviolet has received three Michelin stars[4] since the second edition of Michelin Guide Shanghai released in September 2017, after its two stars in the first edition.

It is one of world's greatest places in 2018 by Time.[25]

William Reed Business Media

Ultraviolet was ranked the 8th best restaurant in William Reed Business Media's Asia's 50 Best Restaurants list in both 2013 and 2014,[26][27] the 60th world's best restaurants in 2013[28] (when Paul Pairet's other restaurant "Mr & Mrs Bund" was ranked the 43rd),[29] and the 58th in 2014 in The World's 50 Best Restaurants 51-100 list.[30]

In 2015: No. 3 in Asia's 50 Best Restaurants,[31] and No. 24 in The World's 50 Best Restaurants.[32]

In 2016: No. 7 in Asia's 50 Best Restaurants,[33] and No. 42 in The World's 50 Best Restaurants.[34]

In 2017: No. 8 in Asia's 50 Best Restaurants,[35] and No. 41 in The World's 50 Best Restaurants.[36]

In 2018: No. 8 in Asia's 50 Best Restaurants, the winner of Art of Hospitality Award,[37][38] and No. 24 in The World's 50 Best Restaurants.[39]

In 2019: No. 6 in Asia's 50 Best Restaurants,[40] and No. 48 in The World's 50 Best Restaurants.[41]

Sublimotion controversy

Paul Pairet criticized Paco Roncero's restaurant, Sublimotion, which opened in 2014, for suspected copying of his restaurant, especially objecting to Sublimotion being marketed as "the first gastronomic show in the world".[42]

See also

References
  1. "Les grandes tables du monde". Les grandes tables du monde. Retrieved 2017-12-28.
  2. "5- UN CERCLE QUI S'AGRANDIT". Les Grandes Tables du Monde. Archived from the original on 4 December 2014. Retrieved 29 November 2014.
  3. "Les Grandes Tables du Monde sont ainsi fières d'accueillir leurs nouveaux membres 2014". LES GRANDES TABLES DU MONDE. Archived from the original on 4 December 2014. Retrieved 28 November 2014.
  4. "Ultraviolet - Shanghai : a Michelin Guide restaurant". www.viamichelin.com. Retrieved 2017-05-17.
  5. Levin, Julie (27 June 2012). "'Multi-sensory dining' sizzles in China". CNN. Retrieved 8 October 2013.
  6. Sinha, Sanskrity (17 July 2012). "Avant Garde Ultraviolet Restaurant that Serves 10 Guests a Night Wows Shanghai Diners". International Business Times. Retrieved 8 October 2013.
  7. Ostheimer, Simon (19 June 2012). "New World". Surface Asia. Retrieved 8 October 2013.
  8. "Ultraviolet Online Brochure". Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet. Retrieved 1 May 2012.
  9. "Ultra Dining at Ultraviolet". The New York Times. Retrieved 13 June 2015.
  10. Kahn, Howie (23 August 2013). "Shanghai Surprise". Retrieved 8 October 2013.
  11. "FAQ". Retrieved 8 October 2013.
  12. Pham, Anne-Laure. "Plats trompe-l'oeil chez Omnivore". L'Express Styles. Retrieved 24 February 2010.
  13. Billecart, Raphaël. "La jeune cuisine sur les planches". Le Figaro Madame. Retrieved 26 February 2010.
  14. "Omnivore Food Festival Deauville 2010 - Le Film". Vimeo. Retrieved 29 November 2014.
  15. "More". Retrieved 8 October 2013.
  16. Kahn, Howie (23 August 2013). "Shanghai Surprise". The New York Times. Retrieved 8 October 2013.
  17. Johnston, Brian (23 June 2013). "The Light Fantastic". The Sydney Morning Herald. Retrieved 8 October 2013.
  18. Johnston, Brian. "Redefining Luxury". Retrieved 8 October 2013.
  19. Grillenzoni, Claudio. "Journey to the centre of the earth". Archived from the original on 2013-11-01. Retrieved 8 October 2013.
  20. Mo, Crystyl. "Ultraviolet". TimeOut Shanghai. Retrieved 8 October 2013.
  21. "Gold Standard Restaurants 2013". Conde Nast Traveller. Archived from the original on 2013-11-18. Retrieved 8 October 2013.
  22. Mo, Crystyl. "Go List - Shanghai". Food & Wine. Time Inc. Affluent Media Group. Retrieved 28 November 2014.
  23. Stout, Kristie Lu. "Ultraviolet in Shanghai -- a high-tech restaurant with 1 table and 22 courses". CNN. Retrieved 2017-05-17.
  24. "The alternative realities of Shanghai's Ultraviolet, the world's most innovative restaurant". The Telegraph. Retrieved 2017-09-23.
  25. "Ultraviolet: The World's 100 Greatest Places of 2018". Time. Retrieved 2019-12-14.
  26. "Asia's 50 Best Restaurants 2013". Asia's 50 Best Restaurants. William Reed Business Media Ltd. Retrieved 13 June 2015.
  27. "Asia's 50 Best Restaurants 2014". Asia's 50 Best Restaurants. William Reed Business Media Ltd. Retrieved 13 June 2015.
  28. The World's 50 Best Restaurants Guide 2013. Tim Brooke-Webb, William Reed Business Media Ltd. April 2013. p. 89.
  29. "The World's 50 Best Restaurants 2013". The World's 50 Best Restaurants. Retrieved 2019-06-29.
  30. "The World's 50 Best Restaurants 2014: 51-100". BigHospitality. Retrieved 17 May 2017.
  31. "Asia's 50 Best Restaurants 2015". Asia's 50 Best Restaurants. William Reed Business Media Ltd. Retrieved 30 June 2016.
  32. "The World's 50 Best Restaurants 2015". The World's 50 Best Restaurants. William Reed Business Media Ltd. Retrieved 30 June 2016.
  33. "Archive - 2016 List". Theworlds50best.com. Retrieved 2017-05-17.
  34. "Past List 2016". www.theworlds50best.com. Retrieved 2017-05-17.
  35. "Asia's 50 Best Restaurants 2017: 1-50". Theworlds50best.com. Retrieved 2018-03-27.
  36. "1-50 The Worlds 50 Best Restaurants 2017". www.theworlds50best.com. Retrieved 2018-07-28.
  37. http://theworlds50best.asia. "Asia's 50 Best Restaurants 2018 1-50". www.theworlds50best.com. Retrieved 2019-06-29.
  38. http://theworlds50best.asia. "Art of Hospitality Award". Asia's 50 Best Restaurants. Retrieved 2018-04-06.
  39. "The Worlds 50 Best Restaurants 2018". www.theworlds50best.com. Retrieved 2019-06-29.
  40. http://theworlds50best.asia. "Asia's 50 Best Restaurants 2019 1-50". Asia's 50 Best Restaurants. Retrieved 2019-06-29.
  41. "1-50 The Worlds 50 Best Restaurants 2019". The World's 50 Best Restaurants. Retrieved 2019-06-29.
  42. "Taste the difference: Sublimotion versus Ultraviolet". Financial Times. August 28, 2015.

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