Valery Babanov

Valery Babanov (Russian: Валерий Бабанов; b. November 10, 1964) is a Russian mountaineer, who is especially known for high-altitude mountain tours above 7,000 m as well as for his severe-grade climbing tours.

Babanov was born in Omsk, and started climbing in 1980. He achieved several first ascents and speed records, and was awarded with the Piolet d'Or twice, at last together with Yuri Koshelenko for an ascent on the South Face of Nuptse Shar I. He is married and lives in Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, France.

First ascents
  • 1999 - Opening of Eldorado in Grandes Jorasses, in July
  • 2006 - Opening of Little Prince in the northern slope of Chomo Lonzo, on May 17
  • 2007 - First of the northwest ridge of Jannu with Serguey Kofanov in autumn.
  • 2008 - New route in the north-western slope of Broad Peak with Victor Afanazief, from July 9 to July 17
  • 2008 - New route on the south-western slope of Gasherbrum I with Victor Afanazief, from July 26 to August 1
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