Jessica Pilz
Jessica Pilz (born November 22, 1996) is an Austrian professional rock climber. She started competing in 2010, both in lead climbing and bouldering. From 2011 to 2015, she won six international youth competitions in lead climbing. In 2014, she also won both the European Youth Cup and Youth Championships in bouldering. In 2017 she won the Winter Military World Games both in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2018, she won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Innsbruck, by climbing the route a few seconds faster than the former World Champion, Janja Garnbret. She rarely climbs outdoor, but she does it with gratifying results. In January 2016, during a short trip to Oliana (Spain), she was able to redpoint two 8c+ (5.14c) routes.[1]
 Pilz competing in 2017 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Personal information | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | Austria | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | November 22, 1996 Haag, Austria | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 163 cm (5 ft 4 in) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 52 kg (115 lb) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | Sport climbing (Lead climbing and Bouldering) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Highest grade | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Known for | World Champion in 2018, she also won 6 international youth competitions in lead climbing and 2 in bouldering | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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| Updated on April 28, 2019. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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In 2019 Pilz placed 10th in the Combined World Championships, qualifying her for the 2020 Olympics.[2]
Rankings
Climbing World Cup[3]
| Discipline | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 33 | 19 | 13 | 3 | 9 | 4 | 2 |
| Bouldering | – | – | – | – | 25 | 58 | 11 |
| Speed | – | – | – | – | – | 57 | 63 |
| Combined | – | – | – | – | 3 | 10 | 4 |
Climbing World Championships
Youth[4]
| Discipline | 2010 Youth B |
2011 Youth B |
2012 Youth A |
2013 Youth A |
2014 Junior |
2015 Junior |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 16 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 |
| Bouldering | – | – | – | – | – | 3 |
| Speed | – | – | – | – | – | 21 |
Adult[4]
| Discipline | 2016 | 2018 | 2019 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 5 | 1 | 6 |
| Bouldering | - | 4 | 33 |
| Speed | - | 59 | 43 |
| Combined | - | 3 | 10 |
Climbing European Championships
Youth[4]
| Discipline | 2012 Youth A |
2013 Youth A |
2014 Junior |
2015 Junior |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 1 | 1 | 2 | 1 |
| Bouldering | – | 2 | 1 | 2 |
Adult[4]
| Discipline | 2013 | 2015 | 2017 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 11 | 3 | 3 |
| Bouldering | – | 5 | 12 |
| Speed | – | 31 | 41 |
Sport climbing at the Winter Military World Games
| Discipline | 2017 |
|---|---|
| Lead | 1 |
| Bouldering | 1 |
| Speed | 2 |
European Youth Cup
| Discipline | 2010 Youth B |
2011 Youth B |
2012 Youth A |
2013 Youth A |
2014 Junior |
2015 Junior |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 5 | 2 | 2 | 6 | 2 | – |
| Bouldering | – | 3 | 5 | 12 | 1 | 2 |
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Lead[4]
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2014 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2015 | 3 | 3 | 6 | |
| 2016 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2017 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2018 | 2 | 3 | 1 | 6 |
| Total | 2 | 8 | 5 | 15 |
Bouldering[4]
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2019 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 |
Gallery
Pilz receiving gold medal in lead climbing at the 2017 Winter Military World Games
Pilz competing at the European Championships in Chamonix, 2013
Pilz competing at the Winter Military World Games in Sochi, 2017
Pilz competing at the Bouldering World Cup in Munich, 2017
References
- UK-Climbing (ed.). "Two ~8c+'s by Jessy Pilz". Retrieved October 22, 2017.
- https://www.olympicchannel.com/en/stories/news/detail/tokyo-2020-olympic-qualification-sport-climbing/
- IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
- IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Pilz's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
External links
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Wikimedia Commons has media related to Jessica Pilz. |