Janja Garnbret

Janja Garnbret (born March 12, 1999) is a Slovenian rock climber and sport climber who has won multiple lead climbing and bouldering events.

Janja Garnbret
Garnbret at the 2017 Boulder World Cup in Munich
Personal information
NationalitySlovenian
Born (1999-03-12) March 12, 1999
Slovenj Gradec, Slovenia[1]
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height164 cm (5 ft 5 in)
Weight47 kg (104 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climberSport climbing
Highest grade
Known forBeing the only climber in history to sweep a Bouldering World Cup season, and to win 14 World titles (8 World Cup series and 6 World Championships).
Medal record
Event 1st 2nd 3rd
World Cup 26 10 5
World Championship 6 1 –
World Cup
Winner2016Lead
Winner2016Combined
Winner2017Lead
2017Bouldering
Winner2017Combined
Winner2018Lead
Winner2018Combined
Winner2019Bouldering
2019Lead
Winner2019Combined
World Championships
2016Lead
2018Lead
2018Bouldering
2018Combined
2019Bouldering
2019Lead
2019Combined
European Championships
2015Lead
2017Bouldering
2017Combined
World Games
2017Lead
Updated on October 26, 2019.

Garnbret won her first international title in the lead competition of the 2014 World Youth B Championships. In July 2015, just after turning 16, she started competing in the senior category of the Lead Climbing World Cup. Since then, she participated in 31 Lead Climbing World Cup events, missing the podium in only four of them.[2][3][4][5][6]

In 2016, aged 17, Garnbret won the seasonal titles of the IFSC Climbing World Cup in lead and combined, World Championships in lead climbing, and World Youth A Championships in both lead climbing and bouldering. From 2016 to 2018, she was awarded the seasonal title in both lead climbing and combined disciplines. In both 2018 and 2019, she won the World Championships in bouldering and combined, and also reclaimed the lead title in 2019. In 2019, at age 20, Garnbret became the first athlete to win all bouldering World Cup events in a season. Throughout six events, she placed first in six qualifications,[7] four semifinals,[8] and six finals,[9] topping 74 out of 78 boulder problems overall.

Early life

Janja Garnbret began climbing at the age of seven. She competed for the first time at a national competition, when she was eight. Her first major competition was the 2013 European Youth Championships in bouldering, which she won.[10]

Competitions

In 2015, her first year of eligibility for the IFSC Climbing World Cup, she placed seventh in the overall lead climbing standings.[11][12] In the same year, she also placed first in a notable Swedish bouldering event, the "La Sportiva Legends Only", ahead of Shauna Coxsey, Mélissa Le Nevé, Juliane Wurm, and Anna Stöhr.[13] She also won the bouldering gathering Melloblocco in 2015.[14]

In 2016, she won most of the IFSC competitions in which she participated. She won the World Cup in lead and combined disciplines, the World Championships in lead, and the World Youth Championships in lead and bouldering.[15] Garnbret also won the Adidas Rockstars 2016 contest (an invitational contest for the world's best bouldering athletes), defeating Jessica Pilz in the superfinal.[16] She also won Rock Master in 2016, and then again in 2018.[17]

In 2017, she won the World Cup in lead and combined disciplines, the combined title in the European Championships, and ranked second in bouldering in the World Cup and the European Championships.

In 2018, she defended her World Cup titles in lead and combined disciplines, and placed fourth in bouldering by winning two golds and one silver, after participating in just 3 out of 7 events (due to school commitments). Moreover, she won the World Championships in both bouldering and combined. She was close to also winning the Lead Climbing World Championships, where she earned the silver medal by topping the final route in 4 minutes and 38 seconds, just 11 seconds slower than Jessica Pilz, who won the Championship.

In 2019, she dominated the bouldering World Cup by solving 74 problems out of 78 and winning every event throughout the season (6 events out of 6).[18] This feat had never been achieved before in the history of competition climbing. Anna Stöhr was almost able to do the same in 2013, when she won seven bouldering World Cup events out of eight. In the same year, Garnbret won three out of four disciplines at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, taking gold in bouldering, lead, and combined.[19]

Garnbret as the 2017 European champion in combined discipline
Janja Garnbret climbing at the 2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup in Munich, Germany

Rock climbing

In addition to her competition climbing career, Janja Garnbret is also an accomplished outdoor climber, completing the ascents of various extremely difficult routes.

In 2015 she on-sighted the route Avatar, an 8b (5.13d) route in Pandora, Croatia.[20] The same year she successfully climbed her first 8c+ (5.14c), Miza za šest at Kotecnik in her home country of Slovenia.[21] The next year she flashed La Fabelita at Santa Linya in Spain, an 8c (5.14b) sports climbing route. She was given advice by her countrywoman Mina Markovič and climbed the route without apparent struggle in less than 15 minutes.[22] In 2017 she went one step further and clipped the anchor of her first 9a (5.14d), Seleccio Natural, again at Santa Linya.[23] Just a few days later she climbed her second 9a route, La Fabela pa la Enmienda, also at Santa Linya.[24]

Rankings
See also: Best IFSC results and Janja Garnbret in the Climbing World Cup

Climbing World Cup[25]
Discipline 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019
Lead 7 1 1 1 2
Bouldering — 17 2 4 1
Speed — — — 57 47
Combined — 1 1 1 1

Climbing World Championships

Youth[26]

Discipline 2013
Youth B		 2014
Youth B		 2015
Youth A		 2016
Youth A
Lead 4 1 1 1
Bouldering — — 1 1
Speed — — 23 28
Combined — — 2[27] 2[28]

Senior[26]

Discipline 2016 2018 2019
Lead 1 2 1
Bouldering — 1 1
Speed — 49 23
Combined — 1 1

Climbing European Championships[26]

Youth[26]

Discipline 2013
Youth B		 2014
Youth B		 2015
Youth A
Lead 1 1 1
Bouldering 1 1 1

Senior[26]

Discipline 2015 2017
Lead 2 4
Bouldering — 2
Speed — 32
Combined — 1

Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup

Lead[26]
Season Category Gold Silver Bronze Total
2014Youth B33
2015Youth A33
2016Youth A11
Total7007

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead[26]
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2015213
2016426
2017628
2018437
2019123
Total157527

Bouldering[26]
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
201611
2017314
2018213
201966
Total113014

See also

References
  1. "Podelitev Bloudkovih priznanj za leto 2018" (PDF). gov.si (in Slovenian). Retrieved 17 December 2020.
  2. IFSC, ed. (September 30, 2018). "2015 Lead Climbing World Cup – Full results". Retrieved September 30, 2018.
  3. IFSC, ed. (September 30, 2018). "2016 Lead Climbing World Cup – Full results". Retrieved September 30, 2018.
  4. IFSC, ed. (September 30, 2018). "2017 Lead Climbing World Cup – Full results". Retrieved September 30, 2018.
  5. IFSC, ed. (September 30, 2018). "2018 Lead Climbing World Cup – Full results". Retrieved September 30, 2018.
  6. IFSC, ed. (November 10, 2019). "2019 Lead Climbing World Cup – Full results". Retrieved November 10, 2019.
  7. Qualifications in 2019 Bouldering World Cup:
    • "Meiringen". April 6, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Moscow". April 14, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Chongquing". April 28, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Wujiang". May 5, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Munich". May 19, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Vail". June 8, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
  8. Semifinals in 2019 Bouldering World Cup:
    • "Meiringen". April 6, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Moscow". April 14, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Chongquing". April 28, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Wujiang". May 5, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Munich". May 19, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Vail". June 8, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
  9. Finals in 2019 Bouldering World Cup:
    • "Meiringen". April 6, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Moscow". April 14, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Chongquing". April 28, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Wujiang". May 5, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Munich". May 19, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Vail". June 8, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
  10. "Janja Garnbret Interview". klettern (in German). Retrieved 2019-06-14.
  11. "IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2015: W O M E N lead".
  12. Murray, Emma (July 25, 2016), "Janja Garnbret Dominates Lead World Cup, Again", Rock & Ice
  13. Ketchum, Chris (November 30, 2015), "Janja Garnbret Dominates La Sportiva Legends Only", Rock & Ice.
  14. "MELLOBLOCCO 2015 – The year of the women".
  15. Athlete profile, International Federation of Sport Climbing, retrieved 2016-08-01.
  16. Adidas ROCKSTARS 2016, retrieved 2017-10-19.
  17. "Rock Master Hall of Fame – Rock Master Festival 2019". Retrieved 2019-09-04.
  18. IFSC, ed. (June 7, 2019). "2019 Bouldering World Cup – Full results". Retrieved June 22, 2019.
  19. S. J.; R. K. (August 20, 2019). "Zgodovinski zlati trojček superšampionke Janje" (in Slovenian). RTV Slovenija. Retrieved January 31, 2020.
  20. "Janja Garnbret climbs 8b onsight in Croatia". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2018-10-09.
  21. http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/janja-garnbret-climbs-8c-at-kotecnik-in-slovenia.html>
  22. "Janja Garnbret flashes second 8c at Santa Linya". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2018-10-09.
  23. "Janja Garnbret climbs her first 9a at Santa Linya in Spain". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2018-10-08.
  24. "Santa Linya sends by Janja Garnbret and Jakob Schubert". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2018-10-16.
  25. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  26. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Garnbret's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  27. Combined results WYCH 2015
  28. Combined results WYCH 2016
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