Magnus Midtbø (climber)

Magnus Rognan Midtbø (born 18 September 1988)[3] is a Norwegian rock climber and YouTube video blogger. He was born in Bergen. He retired from competitive climbing in 2017.

For the Norwegian politician, see Magnus Midtbø.
Magnus Rognan Midtbø
Midtbø in 2010
Personal information
Born (1988-09-18) 18 September 1988
Bergen, Norway
Height174 cm (5 ft 9 in)
Weight68 kg (150 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climberSport climbing
Highest grade
Medal record
World Games
2013 CaliLead
World Cup
2011 ChamonixLead
2012 KranjLead
Updated on June 16, 2019.
Magnus Midtbø
YouTube information
Channel
Years activeJoined Feb 8, 2011
GenreClimbing, Vlog, Sport
Subscribers821,000
Total views97 797 000 views
Updated: December 31, 2020

History

Climbing career

In 2000 Midtbø started climbing when he was 11 years old after his mother signed him up for a climbing course. After only one year of climbing he won the Norwegian Youth Championship. And one year later in 2002 he on-sight climbed his first 8a (5.13b) lead route Øgletryne at the Sageveggen rock wall near Bergen.[4][5][6]

In 2005 he won the World Youth Championships in Beijing, China.[7][8]

Midtbø moved to Innsbruck in 2007 after finishing high school. At the time Innsbruck was a place where many top international climbers were training together for competitions, such as David Lama, Jakob Schubert and Anna Stöhr. In an interview Midtbø described David Lama as the most talented person he had ever climbed with, a climber he looked up to at the time.[9]

In August 2010, he made his hardest ascent to date, when he sent the route Ali Hulk sit start extension in Rodellar in Spain. The route is a boulder (climbed without rope) and a sport climbing route linked together. The first ascent was made by Daniel Andrada in 2007. The grade is 9b (5.15b) and at 2013 there were only six climbers who had climbed routes at this level in the world.[1] In an interview with UK Climbing, Midtbø stated that there were many difficulties with this climb, including resting in the first boulder part for working the rest of the route, and the strain on the core because it is overhanging.[10]

In May 2013, Midtbø on-sighted the 8c+ (5.14c) route Cosi fan tutte at Rodellar in Spain. As of April 2013, only four other people had on-sighted at the 8c+ level or higher: Patxi Usobiaga, Adam Ondra, Ramon Julian Puigblanque, and Alex Megos.[2]

Midtbø retired from competing in May 2017.[11] On the 95th Vlog of Midtbø's YouTube channel, he described his decision to retire as follows, "I still get motivated just by climbing, I think some people need a specific goal, but I’ve never felt like I needed one. It sounds really cheesy I know, I just love climbing I love being in the nature, I love the feeling of feeling free, but it is like that you know. I don’t know, I like the lifestyle, I like traveling, I like trying hard, and most of all, I like the feeling of feeling really fit, really strong, the feeling of being able to climb anything."[12]

YouTube and Instagram

Midtbø runs a successful eponymous YouTube channel which, as of December 2020, has over 820,000 subscribers.[13] On his channel, Midtbø posts videos centered around climbing with themes including training advice, collaboration with other climbers, and otherwise display of Midtbø's own skill. The majority of his videos are part of his vlog series, which he has consistently posted since March 2017. He also posts climbing and workout related pictures and videos on his Instagram, where he has more than 615k followers (2020).

Trivia

His sister Hannah Midtbø (born 1990) is also a professional climber. She won the nordic championships (NM) in category lead in 2006[3] and participated in various IFSC bouldering worldcups and European Championships.[14]

In 2013 Midtbø participated in a German TV show called Der Deutsche Meister (the German Champion) as the international contender in the category Reckstangenklettern (salmon ladder). Midtbø won against the German contender.[15][16]

In January 2020, Midtbø represented Team Europe in American Ninja Warrior: USA vs. The World.[17]

Controversy

Midtbø garnered negative media attention in 2016 after publishing an Instagram picture of himself hanging off the Trolltunga rock formation, a popular tourist attraction in Norway. Midtbø suspended himself from the overhanging rock wearing a safety harness, but local police officers were concerned that the stunt might encourage people without proper protection to risk their lives.[18][19][20]

Rankings

[21] [22] [23]

World Games

World Games record:

Discipline 2013
Cali[24]
Lead 3

Number of medals in the IFSC Climbing World Cup

IFSC Climbing World Cup

Lead
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
201111
201211
Total0022

USA Climbing

USA Climbing

Discipline 2010[25] 2011[26]
Lead 1 1

IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships

IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships

Discipline 2005
Youth A[8]
Lead 1

Lead

European Youth Cup Winner: 2005,[27] 2006,[28] 2007[29]

Season Category Gold Silver Bronze Total
2003Youth B11
2004Youth A11
2005Youth A325
2006Junior33
2007Junior415
Total114015

Scandinavia
  • Nordic champion 7 years in a row (2005–2011)
  • Norwegian champion 11 years in a row (2005–2015)[20][3]

References
  1. Björn Pohl (October 2010). "Video: Magnus Midtboe climbs 9b". UK Climbing. Archived from the original on June 16, 2019. Retrieved 21 April 2013.
  2. "Magnus Midtbø onsights 8c+ at Rodellar in Spain". Planetmountain. 18 April 2013. Archived from the original on June 22, 2018. Retrieved 18 April 2013.
  3. "Magnus Rognan Midtbø in Store Norske Leksikon". Archived from the original on Oct 23, 2016.
  4. Tijl. "Magnus Midtbø". belclimb.net. Archived from the original on Sep 29, 2018.
  5. "Øgletryne Sageveggen". 8a.nu. Archived from the original on Jun 15, 2019.
  6. "The line is blurry. Øgletryne was the first 8a I ever did and now 15 years later it's my first 8a without a rope[...]". facebook.com. Archived from the original on Jun 16, 2019.
  7. "Athlet Magnus midtbø". whiteout-climbing.de. Archived from the original on May 31, 2019.
  8. "UIAA World Youth Championship - Bejing (CHN) 2005 - Result: male youth A lead". Archived from the original on June 16, 2019. Retrieved June 16, 2019.
  10. Björn Pohl (August 2010). "Magnus Midtbø interview". UK Climbing. Retrieved 11 May 2013.
  11. "Retirement announcement". May 2017. Retrieved 16 December 2018.
  12. Mitdbo, Magnus. "NO CLIMBING COMPETITIONS? - Q&A | VLOG #95". Youtube. Retrieved 20 January 2019.
  13. https://www.youtube.com/user/magmidt88/featured
  14. "Hannah Midtboe (IFSC profile)". Archived from the original on Oct 11, 2018.
  15. "Wuppertaler erfolgreich in ARD-Show". Westdeutsche Zeitung. Archived from the original on June 15, 2019.
  16. "Die Gewinner der Finalshow". ARD. Archived from the original on March 21, 2017.
  17. "Get to Know the Ninja Warriors of Team Europe". American Ninja Warrior Nation. Archived from the original on February 7, 2020. Retrieved February 7, 2020.
  18. "Norway climber slammed for Trolltunga stunt".
  19. "Mange mente jeg var gal og dum (Many thought I was crazy and stupid)". NRK. Archived from the original on Aug 17, 2016.
  20. "Her henger Magnus (27) fra Trolltunga (Here, Magnus (27) hangs from Trolltunga)". NRK. Archived from the original on Aug 17, 2016.
  21. "IFSC old website: Magnus Midtboe - All Results (2010)". Archived from the original on Dec 7, 2010.
  22. "IFSC old website: Magnus Midtboe - Best Results (2012)". Archived from the original on Jul 27, 2012.
  23. Mitdbo, Magnus. "About Me (2012)". Archived from the original on Nov 13, 2016.
  24. "World Games 2013 Cali result book: Climbing" (PDF). worldgames2013.sportresult.com. Swiss Timing. Archived (PDF) from the original on 2016-09-12.
  25. "2010 SCS Open National Championship Results". Archived from the original on Mar 7, 2017.
  26. "DiGiulian, Midtbø Win 2011 SCS Open National Championships". Archived from the original on Sep 11, 2018.
  27. "European Youth Cup 2005: male youth A lead". Archived from the original on June 16, 2019. Retrieved June 15, 2019.
  28. "European Youth Cup 2006: male juniors lead". Archived from the original on June 16, 2019. Retrieved June 15, 2019.
  29. "European Youth Series 2007: male juniors lead". Archived from the original on June 16, 2019. Retrieved June 15, 2019.
This article is issued from Wikipedia. The text is licensed under Creative Commons - Attribution - Sharealike. Additional terms may apply for the media files.