Margo Hayes

Margo Hayes (born February 11 1998)[1] is an American professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. She is known for being the first woman to climb a route graded 9a+ (5.15a) (La Rambla, in Siurana, Spain). In 2016, she won both the Bouldering and Lead Climbing events at the World Youth Championships in Guangzhou (China).

Margo Hayes
Climbing World Championships 2018 Lead Semi Hayes
Personal information
NationalityUnited States
BornFebruary 1998 (age 22)[1]
Boulder, Colorado, U.S.
OccupationProfessional rock climber
WebsiteMargoHayes.com
Climbing career
Type of climberSport climbing
Highest grade
Known forBeing the first female to climb a 9a+ route
Updated on October 31, 2017.

Biography

Originally a gymnast who trained at CATS Gymnastics in Boulder,[2] Hayes began climbing at age 10.[3] She joined Team ABC, a renowned youth climbing program in Boulder, where she was coached by Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou.[2] Hayes' grandfather, Dr. James Morrissey, led the first successful climb of the Kangshung Face on Mt. Everest and her father spent time climbing in Yosemite Valley.[2]

On February 26, 2017, Hayes became the first woman to climb a route graded 9a+ (5.15a) (La Rambla, in Siurana, Spain).[4] As of November 2017, the most difficult route ever climbed by a female is 9b (5.15b) (La Planta de Shiva at Villanueva del Rosario, Spain, first female ascent by Angela Eiter). While two other female climbers—Ashima Shiraishi and Josune Bereziartu—had recorded 5.14d/5.15a ascents, Hayes's completion of La Rambla remains the first female ascent of a consensus 5.15a.[4]

As part of the US National Team, Hayes has competed in all three disciplines (lead climbing, speed climbing, and bouldering) of the International Federation of Sport Climbing competitions. In 2015, at the IFSC World Youth Championships in Arco, Italy Hayes won silver both in bouldering and lead, behind Janja Garnbret.[5]

In 2016, at the IFSC World Youth Championships in Guangzhou (China), she competed in the Juniors category, winning both the bouldering and lead events, placing 15th in speed, and placing first in the overall standings.[6] In the same year, Hayes won a Golden Piton award from Climbing Magazine for successfully climbing 14 routes graded 5.14.[7]

Hayes was one of four women to earn a spot on the 2019 U.S. Overall National Team as a first step to qualifying for the 2020 Olympics climbing competition.[8]

In 2016 she won a prize in a scholastic art show.[9]

Rankings[10]
  • 2019 - USA Climbing Open Bouldering Championships - Bronze
  • 2018 - IFSC Climbing World Championships Female Boulder - 10th
  • 2017 - IFSC Youth World Championships Female Junior Combined - Bronze
  • 2017 - USA Climbing Sport & Speed Climbing Champions - Silver
  • 2017 - IFSC Pan American Youth Championships Female Junior Boulder - Gold
  • 2017 - IFSC Pan American Youth Championships Female Junior Lead - Silver
  • 2016 - USA Climbing Sport & Speed Climbing Champions - Gold
  • 2016 - IFSC Youth World Championships Female Junior Boulder - Gold
  • 2016 - IFSC Youth World Championships Female Junior Lead - Gold
  • 2015 - USA Climbing Sport & Speed Climbing Champions - Silver
  • 2015 - IFSC Youth World Championships Female Youth A Boulder - Silver
  • 2015 - IFSC Youth World Championships Female Youth A Lead - Silver

Notable ascents
  • March 24, 2019 - First female ascent of Papichulo - 9a+ (5.15a).[11] With her previous ascents of La Rambla Extension and Biographie, Margo Hayes becomes the first female climber to complete the 9a+ (5.15a) trilogy.
  • September 24, 2017 - First female ascent of Biographie - 9a+ (5.15a)[12]
  • February 26, 2017 - First female ascent of a confirmed 9a+ (5.15a) (La Rambla, Siurana, ESP).[13][14] In 2015, Ashima Shiraishi climbed two routes (Open Your Mind Direct R1 and Ciudad de Dios, in Santa Linya, ESP) which were initially thought to be harder than 9a, possibly 9a+, but these routes were later graded 9a by some repeaters, and no consensus has been reached yet about their grade.[15][14]
  • June 2016, The Crew 8c+ (5.14c) - Rifle Mountain Park (Colorado, (USA)[16]
  • August 2016, Bad Girls Club 9a (5.14d) - Wicked Cave (Rifle Mountain Park. (USA). First female ascent.[17]

See also

References
  1. Gates, Zoe (May 17, 2017). "By the Numbers: Margo Hayes and the Road to 5.15". Climbing. On her 18th birthday in February 2016
  2. Salabert, Shawnte (2020-03-12). "The Extraordinary Effort of Margo Hayes". Outside Online. Retrieved 2020-03-16.
  3. "Bio". MARGO HAYES. Retrieved 2017-06-01.
  4. Haas, Liz (February 27, 2017). "Margo Hayes Climbs La Rambla, Becomes First Woman to Send 5.15a". Climbing.
  5. "Ashima Shiraishi wins two golds at world climbing championships". San Jose Mercury News. September 5, 2015.
  6. "World Youth Climbing Championships: Bouldering brings second gold for Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes & Ashima Shiraishi". Planet Mountain. November 14, 2016.
  7. "2016 Golden Pitons: Sport Climbing". Climbing Magazine | Rock Climbing, Mountaineering, Bouldering, Ice Climbing. Retrieved 2017-05-31.
  8. "Meet Team USA". Rock and Ice. Retrieved 2020-03-16.
  9. "Olympic Hopefuls". Rock and Ice. Retrieved 2020-03-16.
  10. "Athlete Profile: Margo Hayes". IFSC.org. International federation of Sport climbing. Retrieved 27 January 2019.
  11. Rock and Ice (ed.). "Margo Hayes Ticks Another 5.15 with Papichulo!".
  12. Nicolas Mattuzzi (September 25, 2017). "Incroyable! Margo Hayes enchaîne "Biographie" 9a+ et rentre de nouveau dans l'Histoire!". planetgrimpe.com..
  13. Margo Hayes Sends La Rambla (5.15a)! on rockandice.com
  14. Historique! Margo Hayes, 18 ans, enchaîne « La Rambla », 9a+! on planetgrimpe.com
  15. Première voie dans le 9e pour Ashima Shiraishi à Santa Linya Archived 2015-03-20 at the Wayback Machine on Kairn.com
  16. Margo Hayes, 18, Sends The Crew (5.14c) in Rifle on rockandice.com
  17. Margo Hayes, 18, Breaks the “Boys Club” of Bad Girls Club (5.14d) Archived 2017-03-01 at the Wayback Machine on rockandice.com
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