Zhiduo (clothing)

Zhiduo (直裰; alternatively: 直掇, 直綴 and 直敠) refers to two traditional Chinese man's robes: casual zhiduo and priests’ zhiduo, in the broad sense.[1] Particularly the former in the narrow sense.[2]

Zhiduo, a man's casual robe, after medieval China

Casual zhiduo

The casual zhiduo was popular among Yuan and Ming dynasties, it could be worn by both scholar-official and the common people, and has several features:[1]

  • The bottom of robe reaches below the knee
  • With overlapping collar
  • A through center back seam runs down the robe
  • With lateral slit on each lower side
  • Without hem or lan (襴; a decorative narrow panel encircling the robe, usually held in position below the knee)
  • Su Shi in zhiduo
  • A Ming dynasty portrait illustrating a man wearing zhiduo, woman wearing banbi.
  • Ming dynasty portrait of men wearing zhiduo
  • Ming dynasty portrait of men wearing zhiduo
  • Matteo Ricci in zhiduo

Priests’ zhiduo

The priests’ zhiduo was generally worn by a Mahāyāna or Taoist priest, it had been popular since the Song dynasty, and has another several features:[1]

  • With loose cuffs
  • With black borders around the edges of robe
  • With a lan on the waistline of robe

It is also known as jikitotsu (直綴; じきとつ) in Japan.[3]

See also

References
  1. 中国衣冠服饰大辞典 (in Chinese). 1996. pp. 158–9. ISBN 9787532602520.
  2. Zhu, Heping (2001). 中国服饰史稿 (in Chinese). pp. 222–3. ISBN 9787534820496.
  3. 第三版,世界大百科事典内言及, ブリタニカ国際大百科事典 小項目事典,デジタル大辞泉,世界大百科事典 第２版,大辞林. "直綴(じきとつ)とは - コトバンク". コトバンク (in Japanese). Retrieved 2018-07-28.


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