Mys Shmidta
Mys Shmidta (Russian: Мыс Шми́дта, lit. Cape Schmidt) is an urban locality (an urban-type settlement) in Iultinsky District of Chukotka Autonomous Okrug, Russia, located about 5 kilometers (3 mi) southeast of the cape of the same name on the shore of the Chukchi Sea (a part of the Arctic Ocean), south of Wrangel Island, about 650 kilometers (400 mi) from Anadyr, the administrative center of the autonomous okrug. The cape, but not the settlement, was formerly known as North Cape (or Cape North). Cape Billings is located to the west of it and Cape Vankarem is to the east. As of the 2010 Census, its population was 492;[4] down from 705 recorded in the 2002 Census.[9]
Mys Shmidta
Мыс Шмидта | |
|---|---|
Urban-type settlement[1] | |
Location of Mys Shmidta 
| |
  Mys Shmidta Location of Mys Shmidta  Mys Shmidta Mys Shmidta (Chukotka Autonomous Okrug) | |
| Coordinates: 68°52′06″N 179°22′24″W | |
| Country | Russia |
| Federal subject | Chukotka Autonomous Okrug[1] |
| Administrative district | Iultinsky District[1] |
| Founded | 1931[2] |
| Urban-type settlement status since | 1962[2] |
| Area | |
| • Total | 137.81 km2 (53.21 sq mi) |
| Population | |
| • Total | 492 |
| • Estimate (2018)[5] | 140 (−71.5%) |
| • Density | 3.6/km2 (9.2/sq mi) |
| • Municipal district | Iultinsky Municipal District[3] |
| • Urban settlement | Mys Shmidta Urban Settlement[3] |
| • Capital of | Mys Shmidta Urban Settlement[3] |
| Time zone | UTC+12 (MSK+9  [6]) |
| Postal code(s)[7] | 689350 |
| Dialing code(s) | +7 42739[8] |
| OKTMO ID | 77715000056 |
It was founded in 1931[2] as a part of the Soviet Union's development of its Arctic air defenses. Changes in the manner in which national defenses are constructed in recent decades have led to a decline in the settlement's importance, although it remains Chukotka's most important main northern sea port after Pevek.
Geography
The settlement is positioned on a spit which separates the Akatan Lagoon from the open sea and protects the airport from the full effects of the Arctic Ocean. A little distance to the northwest is the cape from which the settlement gets its name and just beyond this lies the rural Chukchi locality of Ryrkaypiy. Cape Yakan is located further to the west.
History
Cape North, or Cape Schmidt as it was then called,[10] was first reached by James Cook in 1778 when he sailed through the Bering Strait and into the Chukchi Sea, demonstrating to people in Europe and North America that Russia and Alaska were separated.[11]
The modern settlement was founded in 1931[2] as a part of the Soviet Union's attempts to develop the extreme northeast of the country. The settlement itself, its airport, and the nearby cape were all named after Otto Schmidt, with Mys Shmidta forming the central base for the enterprises involved in the mining of tin and gold.[12] The surrounding area from Tiksi and Pevek to Nordvik and Maria Pronchishcheva Bay experienced a comparative boom as the first icebreakers began carrying goods and people along the Northern Sea Route.
In 1954, the airfield was developed as part of the plan to create a ring of the Soviet Air Force air bases around the Arctic for the use of its strategic bomber fleet during the Cold War. During the Cold War, this airfield formed a network of forward staging bases inside the Arctic Circle. The use of strategic bomber forward staging bases was dictated by geography and weather.[13] The northern parts of the Soviet Union closest to the United States are in the Arctic, with hostile weather conditions.[13] Consequently, Soviet strategic bombers were normally stationed at bases in more temperate parts of the Soviet Union, flying training missions from these forward staging bases.[13]
In 1962, Mys Shmidta was granted urban-type settlement status.[2]
The focus on intercontinental ballistic missiles as opposed to bombers meant that the airfield became less important and eventually closed for military use in the early 1990s. Around the same time, mining on an industrial scale also ceased. These two events caused a major emigration of people, as illustrated in the table below.
| 1970 | 1979 | 1989 | 2002 | 2010 | 2018 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1,818 | 3,307[14] | 4,587[15] | 705[9] | 492[4] | 140[16] |
Administrative and municipal status
Within the framework of administrative divisions, Mys Shmidta is directly subordinated to Iultinsky District.[1] As a municipal division, the urban-type settlement of Mys Shmidta is incorporated within Iultinsky Municipal District as Mys Shmidta Urban Settlement.[3]
Climate
The overall climate of Shmidtovsky District is more severe than in neighboring Alaska and varies significantly throughout the year. The settlement, by the very nature of its position, is at the mercy of Arctic conditions, which leave it stranded throughout the winter and can pose a danger to shipping during the brief summer as supply ships try to make their deliveries. The importance attached to the summer months from a logistical standpoint was well illustrated in 1983, when winter set in earlier than predicted and resulted in Mys Shmidta and a number of other coastal ports in the Russian Far East shutting early due to ice.[17] Although unloading was delayed due to ice for a fortnight, the first supply ship convoy to Mys Shmidta arrived as planned.[18] However, a severe drop in temperature through August, much earlier than usual, caused a significantly greater concentration of ice in the Long Strait and strong northerly winds forcing the semi-permanent Ayon ice sheet onto the northern coast of Chukotka.[17] By October, the ice had thickened to such a degree that a convoy of ships, including the freighter Nina Sagaydak, Kamensk-Uralsky, together with the icebreakers Kapitan Sorokin and Vladivostok, was held fast by October in sea ice about halfway between Mys Shmidta and Vankarem.[18] This proved chaotic with several ships drifting freely in the ice, hulls grinding against one another.[17] Although the ships eventually separated, the damage cause to the Nina Sagaydak proved too severe and she sank; the first ship to be sunk by ice in Soviet waters since the Vitimles in 1963.[17] The remaining ships were freed by icebreakers and towed to the edge of the sea ice. This situation placed great strain on the settlement's resources as it struggled to deal with such a large amount of shipping and the associated problem of how to store a much larger than usual quantity of cargo, much of which was not intended to be frozen, while authorities readied the winter snow roads.[17]
The lowest temperature ever recorded was −46.1 °C (−51.0 °F) recorded on February 2, 1978. [19] The highest temperature recorded there was 30 °C (86 °F) on July 10, 1953.[20]
| Climate data for Mys Shmidta | |||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year |
| Record high °C (°F) | 9.8 (49.6) |
5.2 (41.4) |
8.9 (48.0) |
8.1 (46.6) |
16.1 (61.0) |
28.3 (82.9) |
30.0 (86.0) |
29.2 (84.6) |
22.7 (72.9) |
11.9 (53.4) |
8.6 (47.5) |
6.9 (44.4) |
30.0 (86.0) |
| Mean maximum °C (°F) | −9.3 (15.3) |
−11.4 (11.5) |
−4.8 (23.4) |
−2.0 (28.4) |
6.3 (43.3) |
17.4 (63.3) |
22.3 (72.1) |
19.4 (66.9) |
12.3 (54.1) |
2.6 (36.7) |
−0.9 (30.4) |
−6.8 (19.8) |
23.8 (74.8) |
| Average high °C (°F) | −22.5 (−8.5) |
−22.5 (−8.5) |
−19.6 (−3.3) |
−13.0 (8.6) |
−1.9 (28.6) |
5.6 (42.1) |
8.8 (47.8) |
7.3 (45.1) |
3.2 (37.8) |
−4.4 (24.1) |
−12.0 (10.4) |
−19.4 (−2.9) |
−7.5 (18.4) |
| Daily mean °C (°F) | −25.8 (−14.4) |
−25.9 (−14.6) |
−23.5 (−10.3) |
−17.2 (1.0) |
−5.1 (22.8) |
2.7 (36.9) |
5.5 (41.9) |
4.5 (40.1) |
0.9 (33.6) |
−7.2 (19.0) |
−15.1 (4.8) |
−22.6 (−8.7) |
−10.7 (12.7) |
| Average low °C (°F) | −29.0 (−20.2) |
−29.3 (−20.7) |
−27.3 (−17.1) |
−21.4 (−6.5) |
−8.2 (17.2) |
−0.3 (31.5) |
2.2 (36.0) |
1.6 (34.9) |
−1.5 (29.3) |
−9.9 (14.2) |
−18.2 (−0.8) |
−25.6 (−14.1) |
−13.9 (7.0) |
| Mean minimum °C (°F) | −38.9 (−38.0) |
−39.7 (−39.5) |
−37.3 (−35.1) |
−32.2 (−26.0) |
−21.2 (−6.2) |
−4.7 (23.5) |
−0.9 (30.4) |
−1.4 (29.5) |
−8.1 (17.4) |
−20.7 (−5.3) |
−30.2 (−22.4) |
−36.4 (−33.5) |
−41 (−42) |
| Record low °C (°F) | −45.7 (−50.3) |
−46.1 (−51.0) |
−45.7 (−50.3) |
−39 (−38) |
−32.5 (−26.5) |
−11.3 (11.7) |
−4.7 (23.5) |
−7.1 (19.2) |
−17.8 (0.0) |
−37 (−35) |
−39.6 (−39.3) |
−45.4 (−49.7) |
−46.1 (−51.0) |
| Average precipitation mm (inches) | 14.3 (0.56) |
14.2 (0.56) |
8.0 (0.31) |
12.2 (0.48) |
14.6 (0.57) |
17.1 (0.67) |
32.6 (1.28) |
39.9 (1.57) |
36.1 (1.42) |
31.3 (1.23) |
27.2 (1.07) |
17.4 (0.69) |
264.9 (10.41) |
| Average rainy days | 0 | 0.1 | 0.1 | 0.4 | 4 | 11 | 16 | 18 | 14 | 3 | 1 | 0.2 | 67.8 |
| Average snowy days | 16 | 15 | 14 | 16 | 15 | 4 | 1 | 1 | 8 | 20 | 20 | 17 | 147 |
| Average relative humidity (%) | 84 | 83 | 83 | 85 | 88 | 87 | 87 | 89 | 88 | 85 | 86 | 85 | 86 |
| Mean monthly sunshine hours | 4 | 55 | 173 | 254 | 208 | 256 | 233 | 133 | 83 | 55 | 9 | 0 | 1,463 |
| Source 1: Météo climat stats[21] Météo Climat [22] | |||||||||||||
| Source 2: NOAA (sun only, 1961–1990)[23] | |||||||||||||
Economy
The settlement is populated mostly by indigenous people, whose economy is driven mainly by reindeer herding and low level gold mining. However, there is little mining done in the vicinity of Mys Shmidta.[24]
Port
The port at Mys Shmidta is generally open between July and September, although the waters surrounding the port are shallow which limits the type of ships that can serve the area. The port is operated by the Russian firm Almazzoloto.[25]
Though it has shrunk since the days of the Cold War, Mys Shmidta is still the main northern sea port in Chukotka along with Pevek.[26] Following the dissolution of the Soviet Union, imports all but ceased in the early to mid-1990s, although in 1991 Mys Shmidta, importing nearly 30,000 tons of mainly American fuel, dealt with significantly more cargo than ports such as Pevek. The decline in the overall volume of cargo passing through Mys Shmidta continued throughout the 1990s, with less than 50,000 tons being handled in 1997 and just over 1,000 tons the following year,[26] This is in part due to the declining economy of the region, which has caused a fall in investment in the port infrastructure, which, in turn, limits the maximum potential turnover of the port.
It is difficult to see where future cargo exports might come from.[26] While gold is mined in Bilibino,[26] with lower-level mining maintained at Iultin and Polyarny, these activities do not produce significant cargo volumes for the northern sea route, nor does the extraction of any other minerals in the area. Although part of the Northern Sea Route's series of ports, Mys Shmidta, as a port, will be dominated by imports of food and coal for the settlement and the surrounding rural localities.
A federal government decision in 1997 led to the establishment of an emergency radio station in Mys Shmidta as well as other northern Sea route ports to specifically monitor distress and salvage frequencies.[27]
Air transport
Immediately to the southwest of the settlement is the Mys Shmidta Airport. It is now employed solely for civilian usage providing flights to Anadyr. Flights are provided by Chukotavia.
Roads
Mys Shmidta is not connected to any other part of Chukotka by permanent road. Transport must either be by air or along unpaved roads. One such unpaved road is linking Mys Shmidta with Egvekinot.[24] There is also a 435-kilometer (270 mi) road between Mys Shmidta and Komsomolsky, of which 235 kilometers (146 mi) is unpaved and the remaining 199 kilometers (124 mi) is a snow road.[24]
Tourism
Mys Shmidta is the starting point for any tourist wishing to explore Wrangel Island, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The nature reserve's headquarters are in Mys Shmidta.[28]
References
Notes
- Directive #517-rp
- Russian Academy of Sciences. Institute of Geography. Information about Mys Shmidta (in Russian)
- Law #149-OZ
- Russian Federal State Statistics Service (2011). "Всероссийская перепись населения 2010 года. Том 1" [2010 All-Russian Population Census, vol. 1]. Всероссийская перепись населения 2010 года [2010 All-Russia Population Census] (in Russian). Federal State Statistics Service.
- "26. Численность постоянного населения Российской Федерации по муниципальным образованиям на 1 января 2018 года". Federal State Statistics Service. Retrieved January 23, 2019.
- "Об исчислении времени". Официальный интернет-портал правовой информации (in Russian). June 3, 2011. Retrieved January 19, 2019.
- Почта России. Информационно-вычислительный центр ОАСУ РПО. (Russian Post). Поиск объектов почтовой связи (Postal Objects Search) (in Russian)
- Futé, p. 31
- Russian Federal State Statistics Service (May 21, 2004). "Численность населения России, субъектов Российской Федерации в составе федеральных округов, районов, городских поселений, сельских населённых пунктов – районных центров и сельских населённых пунктов с населением 3 тысячи и более человек" [Population of Russia, Its Federal Districts, Federal Subjects, Districts, Urban Localities, Rural Localities—Administrative Centers, and Rural Localities with Population of Over 3,000] (XLS). Всероссийская перепись населения 2002 года [All-Russia Population Census of 2002] (in Russian).
- Beaglehole, p. 621
- Serreze & Barry, p. 5
- Leontyev & Novikova, p. 262
- Globalsecurity.org. Mys Shmidta
- "Всесоюзная перепись населения 1979 г. Национальный состав населения по регионам России" [All Union Population Census of 1979. Ethnic composition of the population by regions of Russia] (XLS). Всесоюзная перепись населения 1979 года [All-Union Population Census of 1979] (in Russian). 1979 – via Demoscope Weekly (website of the Institute of Demographics of the State University—Higher School of Economics.
- "Всесоюзная перепись населения 1989 г. Численность наличного населения союзных и автономных республик, автономных областей и округов, краёв, областей, районов, городских поселений и сёл-райцентров" [All Union Population Census of 1989: Present Population of Union and Autonomous Republics, Autonomous Oblasts and Okrugs, Krais, Oblasts, Districts, Urban Settlements, and Villages Serving as District Administrative Centers]. Всесоюзная перепись населения 1989 года [All-Union Population Census of 1989] (in Russian). Институт демографии Национального исследовательского университета: Высшая школа экономики [Institute of Demography at the National Research University: Higher School of Economics]. 1989 – via Demoscope Weekly.
- Barr & Wilson
- Martyshin
- "Météo climat stats | Relevés en Février 1978 à Mys Shmidta / Données Météorologiques Gratuites". meteo-climat-bzh.dyndns.org.
- "Météo climat stats | Relevés en Juillet 1953 à Mys Shmidta / Données Météorologiques Gratuites".
- "Moyennes 1981-2010 Russie (Asie)" (in French). Retrieved November 8, 2019.
- "Météo Climat stats for Mys Shmidta". Météo Climat. Retrieved November 8, 2019.
- "Climate Normals for Cape Smidta". National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. Retrieved January 20, 2013.
- Fute, p. 141ff
- Ragner, p. 87
- Ragner, pp. 37–38
- Ivanov et al.
- United Nations Environment Programme. Natural System Of Wrangel Island Reserve, Chukotka, Russian Federation, p. 7
Sources
- Правительство Чукотского автономного округа. Распоряжение №517-рп от 30 декабря 2008 г. «Об утверждении реестра административно-территориальных и территориальных образований Чукотского автономного округа», в ред. Распоряжения №323-рп от 27 июня 2011 г. «О внесении изменений в Распоряжение Правительства Чукотского автономного округа от 30 декабря 2008 года №517-рп». Опубликован: База данных "Консультант-плюс". (Government of Chukotka Autonomous Okrug. Directive #517-rp of December 30, 2008 On the Adoption of the Registry of the Administrative-Territorial and Territorial Formations of Chukotka Autonomous Okrug, as amended by the Directive #323-rp of June 27, 2011 On Amending the Government of Chukotka Autonomous Okrug Directive No. 517-rp of December 30, 2008. ).
- Дума Чукотского автономного округа. Закон №149-ОЗ от 24 ноября 2008 г. «О статусе, границах и административных центрах муниципальных образований на территории Иультинского муниципального района Чукотского автономного округа», в ред. Закона №85-ОЗ от 20 октября 2010 г «Об упразднении сельского поселения Нутэпэльмен Иультинского муниципального района Чукотского автономного округа и о внесении изменений в отдельные законодательные акты Чукотского автономного округа». Вступил в силу через десять дней со дня официального опубликования. Опубликован: "Ведомости", №46/1 (373/1), 28 ноября 2008 г. (Duma of Chukotka Autonomous Okrug. Law #149-OZ of November 24, 2008 On the Status, Borders, and Administrative Centers of the Municipal Formations on the Territory of Iultinsky Municipal District of Chukotka Autonomous Okrug, as amended by the Law #85-OZ of October 20, 2010 On the Abolition of Nutepelmen Rural Settlement of Iultinsky Municipal District of Chukotka Autonomous Okrug and on Amending Several Legislative Acts of Chukotka Autonomous Okrug. Effective as of the day ten days after the official publication date.).
- Petit Fute. Chukotka.
- J. C. Beaglehole. The Life of Captain James Cook.
- M. C. Serreze and R. G. Barry. The Arctic Climate System
- В. В. Леонтьев и К. А. Новикова (V. V. Leontyev and K. A. Novikova). "Топонимический словарь северо-востока СССР" (Toponymic Dictionary of the Northeastern USSR). Магадан, 1989
- W. Barr and E. A. Wilson. The Shipping Crisis in the Soviet Eastern Arctic at the Close of the 1983 Navigation Season
- V. Martyshin. "On the Route from Pevek", published in Vodny Transport
- C. L. Ragner. Northern Sea Route Cargo Flows and Infrastructure—Present State and Future Potential. The Fridtjof Nansen Institute, Report 13/2000.
- Y. M. Ivanov, A. P. Ushakov, and A. N. Yakovlov. Russian Administration of the Northern Sea Route. Central INSROP Working Paper, #106.