Tengkolok

Tengkolok, also known as destar setanjak/ tanjak, and setangan kepala,[1] is a traditional Malay male headgear. It is made from long songket cloth folded and tied in particular style (solek). Nowadays, it is usually worn in ceremonious functions, such as royal ceremony by royalties, and wedding ceremony by grooms. The Malays in the state of Kelantan wear a variant called semutar.[2]

"Solek Dendam Tak Sudah" tengkolok wore by Yang di-Pertuan Agong during coronation ceremony.

Collection of Tengkolok wore by Sultan for all Malay states except Johor which Sultan of Johor wore a crown due to influence from British Empire. Each tengkolok has different styles as there has contain symbol and meanings.

Name

According to the 4th edition of Kamus Dewan, the terms "tengkolok", "destar", and "setanjak"/"tanjak" are synonyms; the word "tengkolok" also refers to "headgear or headcover worn by women",[1] but the definition as women headgear is rarely used today.

However, some people say that tengkolok, destar, and tanjak are different in term of cloth type or tying even though the purpose is the same, which the tengkolok is a headgear made from cloth of good quality and its tying has many layers and tapers to tip; "destar" has low tying and its tying layers are fewer than tengkolok; "tanjak" has tying much like tengkolok, the only difference is that its cloth is simple and thin.[3]

Tengkolok also mentioned in Malay Annals (Malay:Sejarah Melayu) stories as Raja Muhammad, son of Sultan Mansur Syah murdered Tun Besar, son of Bendahara Tun Perak as a ball kicked by him, knocked off his tengkolok to the ground. This incident caused Raja Muhammad to be sent away from Malacca and installed as Raja in Pahang.[4]

"Solek Balung Raja", a destar wore by Sultan of Selangor during coronation ceremony or birthday ceremony.

History

It is accepted that tengkolok was made as early as Malacca Sultanate. Before that time, commoners were obliged to cover their head or to tie their long hair, becoming neater and tidier when seeking an audience with sultan. Malaccan Malays managed to use a long rectangular cloth, folded and tied into a kind of neat headgear, to wear it in formal affairs. This cloth-tying became more beautiful as the time goes, modified and adapted depending on the status of its wearer.[5]

Solek

Tengkolok is made in various forms, with different types and design of cloth, depending on the social status of its dress.[6] The general term for different forms of tengkolok is "solek". Each different solek also has its special name, for instance: the tengkolok worn by Yang di-Pertuan Agong during coronation ceremony since the time of independence is known as "Solek Dendam Tak Sudah" (Persistent Vengeance Style).

Every Malay king has their particular solek. For example, the Sultan of Selangor wears a richly golden yellow "Solek Balung Raja" (Royal Crest Style) when attending a coronation ceremony or his birthday ceremony.

Note

1. Carian tengkolok di Pusat Rujukan Persuratan Melayu, Dewan Bahasa dan Pustaka. Dicapai pada 3 Mac 2011.
2. "Semutar". cikgunasir.blogspot.my. Retrieved 2018-04-24.
3. Stanjak, Tanjak, Destar, Tengkolok, Gemala Kasturi (blog), 11 Julai 2010. Diambil pada 3 Mac 2011.
4. https://www.malaysia-today.net/2009/03/16/raja-adil-raja-disembah-raja-zalim-raja-disanggah/
5. Warisan Budaya Malaysia: Pakaian dan Perhiasan Masyarakat Melayu – Perhiasan Kepala Archived 2011-03-17 at the Wayback Machine, Perpustakaan Negara Malaysia. Diambil pada 3 Mac 2011.
6. Tanjak Warisan Melayu, Resam Melayu. Diambil pada 3 Mac 2011.