Trussardi

Trussardi [trusˈsardi] is an Italian fashion house, founded in 1911. It began as a leather glove manufacturer, and expanded its line to additional leather goods in the 1970s after Nicola Trussardi took over from his uncle. In the 1980s the company started production of ready-to-wear clothing, in addition to products including perfumes and jeans. By the 1990s Trussardi was selling internationally, with its largest markets in Italy and Japan. As of 2014 Tomaso Trussardi is CEO, Gaia Trussardi is Creative Director, and Maria Luisa Trussardi is President of the Trussardi Group.

For other uses, see Trussardi (disambiguation).
Trussardi
TypePrivate
IndustryFashion
Founded1911
FounderDante Trussardi
Headquarters
Bergamo, Milan
Key people
Tomaso Trussardi (CEO), Gaia Trussardi (Creative Director), and Maria Luisa Trussardi (President)
RevenueEUR 152 million
Websitewww.trussardi.com

History

1911-1970

Trussardi was founded in 1911 by Dante Trussardi, as a leather glove maker, selling to the public and to the Italian army during World War II until it surrendered to Allied Forces. After his death, Dante's nephew took over the business.[1]

1970s

In 1970 Nicola Trussardi took over from his grandfather Dante, after he was killed in a hunting accident. His wife Marialuisa also joined the company, creative director. During the 1970s Nicola Trussardi adapted to changing fashion trends by diversifying into other leather goods and accessories, and eventually non-leather apparel. He started with goods such as wallets, suitcases, belts and shoes, with a new greyhound logo. Nicola took full control of the company after the death of his father.[1]

1980s
Sheet of multi-colored Trussardi "greyhound" logos

The company released its first perfume in 1980, named "Trussardi", followed in 1983 by "Trussardi Uomo" for men.[2] Now full head of the company, Nicola launched the first Trussardi women's ready-to-wear line in 1983,[3] followed by a men's line in 1984. Trussardi Jeans was founded in 1986.[4]

The company later added perfume, sport and home lines. By 1985 the brand had 120 stores around the world. The company also developed interior designs for private aircraft and helicopters. Around this time they entered the US market, with sections in department stores in addition to boutiques, and initial franchise locations in Beverly Hills, Atlanta, Miami, and San Francisco. The first Bloomingdales location opened in 1985, with opera singer Luciano Pavarotti in attendance for the grand opening. In Milan, the company held their ready-to-wear runway shows in offbeat locations, including the Piazza Duomo, La Scala, or the Milan railway station. In 1989 the company launched its first eyewear line. In 1993, the company opened a research and development center in Brindisi, which initially focused on raw material research, new fabrics, and changing packaging to be more environmentally friendly.[1][5][6][7][8]

1990s

The company also developed brand-name stores with two lines. The first were Trussardi stores that sold Trussardi fashion goods. The second were called T-Stores, which sold the company's lifestyle line. Goods found at a T-Store can include jeans, sports lines, bicycles, tableware, and confections. The first three stores opened in 1995 in Bangkok, Hong Kong, and Seoul. In 1996, Trussardi released the first official T-Store line of casual clothing, focusing especially on basics. The three initial lines for the collection were Trussardi Sport, Jeans, and T-store, each produced by the company Sosab—owned by Nicola Trussardi and operating out of Modena, Italy. The company's first New York City store opened in 1996 as well. That year the turnover for the company, including licenses, was $530 million.[1][5] They also opened a new store in Milan within Nicola Trussardi's redeveloped Marino Alla Scala across from the La Scala opera hall. The complex also houses a bar, restaurant, and store.[9][10]

The Trussardi family

By this time the company had seven fragrances, with about one third of fragrance sales being done in Europe and two-thirds abroad.[3] In 1998 Trussardi launched a new eyewear line, with both prescription and sun glasses, in addition to a line of time pieces.[11] In 1992 Trussardi licensed its Trussardi Levriero and Trussardi Action lines to the Japanese company C. Itoh for about $1.4 billion over five years. At the time, Japan accounted for about 70% of the company's total exports out of Italy, and there were about 200 Trussardi Levriero stores in the country.[12] Following its partnership with C. Itoh, Nicola Trussardi founded Teijin Ltd, intending it to be Trussardi's long-term partner in the country. In 2003 Trussardi took on Mitsui as its partner in Japan, ending its relationship with Teijin.[13]

2000s

Francesco Trussardi, Nicola's son, became chairman of the brand after his father's death in 1999. His sister Beatrice also took a leadership position with the company.[14] After her brother's death in 2003, Beatrice became president and CEO of the fashion house, staying president until Maria Luisa Trussardi took over the position.[15] In 2006 the brand hired Eric Wright, who had previously designed for Fendi, to be the house's head designer.[16] In 2008 Trussardi launched the super high-end line of brand Trussardi dal 1911, designed by Milan Vukmirovic.[15] In 2011 Umit Benan Sahin became the label's creative director, and in 2013 Sahin was replaced by Gaia Trussardi. Prior to becoming creative director for the mainline collections, Gaia had already served as the creative director for Tru Trussardi and Trussardi Jeans.[17] The current head and CEO of the company is Tomaso Trussardi.[18] For the 40th anniversary of their logo, Yuko Shimizu produced an animated short film entitled "Sky Watcher".[19]

In 2017 Trussardi launched its latest men's fragrance Riflesso. Said to have ambrosial wafts of woody and oriental notes.[20]

Modern collections

Current collections for the fashion house are Trussardi, Tru Trussardi, and Trussardi Jeans. Each of these lines has their own stand-alone stores and covers different aspects of the house's customer base: traditional, a younger crowd, and casual. The company also had a third line that has since closed labeled "Tru Trussardi".[21]

Trussardi

Trussardi is the mainline collection of the fashion house, which releases the group's ready-to-wear line and couture collections. It designs clothing for both men and women. The 2014 collection was partially inspired by the films of Jean-Luc Godard and François Truffaut. Nicole Phelps wrote of the Trussardi line that, "The Trussardi family business is one of Italy's ultimate heritage houses, with a century-plus history of leather goods artisanship."[22]

Tru Trussardi

Tru Trussardi was the house's more casual collection, with its own stand alone stores.[23] Tru Trussardi releases clothing and accessories.[24][25] As part of the corporate restructuring carried out in 2016, the Tru Trussardi line was closed.[26]

Trussardi Jeans

Trussardi Jeans is the denim line for the fashion house, founded in 1986. The line produces casual wear for both men and women.[27][28]

Trussardi Junior

Trussardi Junior is the fashion house's children's clothing line, first released in 1983 alongside the company's first ready-to-wear collections.[29] There are two collections for Trussardi Junior, the main collection and the top collection. In 2013 Trussardi licensed the creation of the line to Italian fashion house Pinco Pallino through 2018.[30] The recent partnership with Brave Kid (of OTB group) was launched with the first fall winter 2017/18 collection.[31]

Home design

For home décor Trussardi also produced MY Design, with the MY standing for industrial designer Michael Young. His collection was released in 2011, and was inspired by Nicola's work on the interior of aircraft in the 1980s.[32][33] Trussardi Casa, the collection's current furniture line, was released and presented in 2014 at the Milan Furniture Fair.[34] In 2016 Trussardi launched a partnership with Dynamic Yachts to produce, through Trussardi Casa, a whole collection designed for D4 vessels.[35]

Partnerships and licenses
Ristorante Trussardi alla Scala

In 2015 the brand licensed De Rigo to design, manufacture and distribute its eyewear line.[36] The brand also has a perfume line (Trussardi Parfums) which has expanded to 28 varieties.[37] In the 2013-14 season, Trussardi also began designing the off-field uniforms for Juventus Football Club.[38] In 2014, Trussardi formed a partnership with Morellato for the Trussardi Orologi line of Swiss made timepieces.[39] That year the company also formed a partnership with Tollegno 1900 to produce a line of underwear, nightwear and beachwear.[40] In 2016 Trussardi partnered with Lardini to create the men’s formalwear line Trussardi Elegance which was inaugurated in Milan with the fall winter 2017/18 collection.[41] Fashion Streetwear Italia has the licence to produce the collection Trussardi for Your Dog.[42]

Ristorante Trussardi Alla Scala

Founded in 2006, Ristorante Trussardi Alla Scala has received two Michelin stars.[43] The first was received in 2008 and the next in 2009, given to executive chef Andrea Berton.[33][44] Attached is the Cafè Trussardi, which houses an open courtyard overlooking the square, and its glass walls also face Teatro alla Scala and the other buildings on the promenade.[45]

Advertising

Nicola Trussardi's children and other family members are frequently used in the company's print and television advertising campaigns.[1] This has included Gaia Trussardi, directed in a commercial for the perfume My Name by Gabriele Salvatores, and Tomaso Trussardi's Wim Wenders' directed commercial for the scent My Land.[46][47] In 2014 photographer William Wegman produced a print campaign for Trussardi, featuring photographs of the company's trademark greyhounds adorned with Trussardi clothing and accessories.[48]

See also

References
  1. Samantha Conti (April 15, 1999). "NICOLA TRUSSARDI DEAD AT 56". WWD. Archived from the original on September 24, 2015. Retrieved May 28, 2014.
  2. N. Groom (1997). New Perfume Handbook. Springer. p. 332. ISBN 9780751404036. Retrieved May 27, 2014.
  3. Amy B. Barone (June 7, 1996). "Revamped Trussardi returns to basics.(Eye on Fragrance)". WWD. Archived from the original on September 24, 2015. Retrieved May 27, 2014.
  4. "Nicola Trussardi". The Herald. April 27, 1999. Archived from the original on September 24, 2015. Retrieved May 27, 2014.
  5. Samantha Conti (January 30, 1996). "Trussardi makes bid to redefine image with new, sportier lines. (Nicola Trussardi)(Italia '96)". WWD. Archived from the original on September 24, 2015. Retrieved May 27, 2014.
  6. "Designs on US expansion inspire Nicola Trussardi". WWD. September 26, 1985. Archived from the original on September 24, 2015. Retrieved May 28, 2014.
  7. "Bloomingdale's opens boutique for Trussardi". WWD. September 24, 1985. Archived from the original on September 24, 2015. Retrieved May 27, 2014.
  8. "Trussardi plunging into the U.S. market. (leather goods manufacturer introduces sunglasses line)". WWD. May 10, 1991. Archived from the original on September 24, 2015. Retrieved May 27, 2014.
  9. Samantha Conti (September 25, 1996). "Trussardi builds his dream palazzo". WWD. Archived from the original on September 24, 2015. Retrieved May 28, 2014.
  10. Dominique Muret (January 30, 2014). "Tomaso Trussardi (AD di Trussardi): "Nel 2014 lanciamo la linea Casa e gli orologi"". Fashion Magazine. Retrieved July 7, 2014.
  11. "Trussardi (fashion designer Nicola Trussardi)". WWD. February 24, 1998. Archived from the original on September 24, 2015. Retrieved May 27, 2014.
  12. Sara Gay Forden (September 3, 1992). "Trussardi inks pact for Japan licensing. (Trussardi S.p.A., C. Itoh and Company Ltd.)". Daily News Record. Archived from the original on September 24, 2015. Retrieved May 27, 2014.
  13. "In Brief.(Brief Article)". WWD. January 9, 2003. Archived from the original on September 24, 2015. Retrieved May 27, 2014.
  14. "Foreign News: Fashion icon tragedy". Daily Post (Liverpool, England). January 27, 2003. Archived from the original on September 24, 2015. Retrieved May 27, 2014.
  15. Courtney Colavita (January 21, 2008). "TRUSSARDI'S TURNING POINT". Daily News Record. Archived from the original on September 24, 2015. Retrieved May 27, 2014.
  16. Suzy Menkes (January 20, 2006). "Gucci heads for highlands while Anglomania reigns". International Herald Tribune. Archived from the original on September 24, 2015. Retrieved May 27, 2014.
  17. Ella Alexander (February 28, 2013). "Trussardi New Creative Director Named". British Vogue. Retrieved May 31, 2014.
  18. Anna Higgie (March 6, 2014). "Interview with Tomaso Trussardi - Illustration by Anna Higgie". Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Retrieved May 31, 2014.
  19. Zargani, Luisa (3 December 2013). "Trussardi Marks Milestone With Animated Short".
  20. https://www.menswearstyle.co.uk/2017/12/05/introducing-the-trussardi-riflesso/7972
  21. Staff. "CHARMANT GROUP: TRU TRUSSARDI".
  22. Nicole Phelps (February 23, 2014). "Fall 2014 Ready-to-Wear: Trussardi". Style.com. Retrieved May 31, 2014.
  23. Laura Tortora (February 14, 2014). "Tru Trussardi apre da Printemps Haussmann" (in Italian). Vogue Italia. Retrieved May 31, 2014.
  24. "Tru Trussardi metal, acetate and leather sunglasses". Financial Times. Retrieved May 31, 2014.
  25. "Tru Trussardi". Retrieved May 31, 2014.
  26. "Tomaso Trussardi : "Il futuro del levriero è il lusso accessibile"". LaStampa.it.
  27. Giuliana Garzone & Cornelia Ilie (2007). The Use of English in Institutional and Business Settings: An Intercultural Perspective. Peter Lang. p. 37. ISBN 9783039108893. Retrieved May 31, 2014.
  28. Скляренко В. М.; Вологжина Н. И.; Исаенко О.; Колозинская И. А. (2013). 100 знаменитых мира моды (in Russian). Directmedia. ISBN 9789660333109. Retrieved May 31, 2014.
  29. "Trussardi, SPA". Retrieved May 31, 2014.
  30. Elena Passeri (May 4, 2013). "Trussardi Junior affidato a Pinco Pallino". Fashion Magazine. Retrieved May 31, 2014.
  31. "Trussardi Junior sceglie Brave Kid - Vogue.it". 26 January 2017.
  32. "Home Style- Trussardi Design Relaunches at the Salone del Mobile in Milan - Sharon Haver - FocusOnStyle.com". 11 April 2011.
  33. Bonami, Francesco. "That's so Tru".
  34. "Trussardi Home / 125". Domus Web. April 16, 2014. Retrieved May 31, 2014.
  35. "Yacht di lusso e griffe di alta moda: Trussardi Casa veste Dynamiq".
  36. "Trussardi affida gli occhiali a De Rigo".
  37. "Trussardi Perfumes And Colognes". www.fragrantica.com.
  38. Novaro, Anna (16 May 2013). "Trussardi Teams With Juventus Football Club".
  39. "Orologi: Trussardi sceglie Morellato".
  40. "Trussardi, intimo e costumi con Tollegno" (in Italian). Pambianco News. December 16, 2014. Retrieved January 8, 2014.
  41. "Moda Uomo: Trussardi e Lardini presentano Trussardi Elegance - Vogue.it". 24 November 2016.
  42. "Trussardi: ora è anche "for Your Dog" insieme a Fashion Streetwear Italia < Moda < News < Home page". fashionmagazine.it.
  43. wheremilan.com Michelin-starred Restaurants
  44. Britten, Fleur; Rutherford, Tristan; Tomasetti, Kathryn (11 May 2010). Milan. A Hedonist's guide to... ISBN 9781905428373 – via Google Books.
  45. "Trussardi Café, Piazza della Scala 5, Milan. Restaurants & cafés - Time Out Milan".
  46. "Trussardi Video backstage My Name Gabriele Salvatores - Vogue.it".
  47. "Wenders Loves Milano".
  48. Laura Bradley (January 9, 2014). "The Trussardi Greyhounds". Another Magazine. Retrieved May 31, 2014.
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